Tag lifestyle

Stanley Tucci’s “Tucci in Italy” has Premiered

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If you loved Stanley Tucci’s food and travel show “Searching for Italy,” which became a phenomenon during the pandemic, you will be happy to hear that Stanley’s new show “Tucci in Italy” has just premiered. The five-part series began airing Sunday, May 18, 2025, on the National Geographic Channel and can also be viewed streaming on Disney+ and Hulu the next day. It may have taken a while, but we can once again traipse around five different regions of Italy with Stanley, enjoying their food and culture without leaving home. “Ciao di nuovo” Stanley!

Heritage Wine Update Interviews: J. Stephen Casscles and Alfredo “Alfie” Alcántara

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Vignerons and winemakers are adapting to the changing climate conditions in vineyards and wineries around the world. As documented in my interviews with winemakers, vineyard/winery managers, and other wine industry professionals, wine grape harvests globally occur earlier than ever before. This phenomenon is the new normal instead of the recurrent fluctuations expected over a chronicled time frame. Change in the wine world moves slowly but a small group of visionaries is leading a vanguard of growers and winemakers who are addressing the issues, not by exploring uncharted waters but by looking to the past to find answers for the future. These modern-day pioneers are resurrecting nearly forgotten grape varieties that were popular a century or more ago. They are creating exciting new wines from Heritage and Cool Climate hybrid grapes by employing unconventional winemaking methods and techniques. These strategies draw out the most favorable characteristics these grapes have to offer. 

To better understand the benefits and potential that Heritage and Cool Climate grape hybrids provide, I asked J. Stephen Casscles, the leading authority in the field, for his opinions. Steve has authored extensive research on this subject, including two books, numerous articles, and scientific papers. He is also a well-known lecturer, winemaker, and owner of Cedar Cliff Vineyard, a Heritage grape vineyard in Athens, New York. 

I also enlisted the help of Alfredo “Alfie” Alcántara, winemaker, Heritage grape vineyard owner, and cinematographer. Alfie is a Mexico City-raised, NYU Tisch School of the Arts grad, award-winning New York-based documentary producer, and cinematographer whose resume includes having his work screened at the Sundance Film Festival, Tribeca Film Festival, Mountainfilm in Telluride, SXSW, and CNN, just to name a few. Alfie is working closely with Steve Casscles growing and producing Heritage grape wine and co-ferments from his Dear Native Grapes Winery and Vineyard in the Catskill  Mountains of New York.

The following are my interviews verbatim and in their entirety with J. Stephen Casscles and Alfredo Alcántara.

Wpawinepirate: Please share your thoughts on how growing and making wine from Heritage and interspecific grape varieties is similar to traditional procedures used with vinifera grapes, but elaborate on the differences that make your forward-looking techniques so valuable to winemaking now and especially in the future.

Casscles’s Response:  “I think that growing Heritage and interspecific cool climate grape varieties are grown with the same considerations as growing vinifera.  The very large difference is that while Heritage and Cool Climate hybrids are pretty forgiving when growing them in the field, that is not the case with vinifera.  I find that hybrids are more productive than vinifera, are more hardy, cold-resistant, fungus disease-resistant, and are direct producers (they do not grow on root stock). 

Being “direct producers”, not grown on rootstock, means that when we get our more commonly occurring late spring frosts (due to the influences of Climate Change) that inflicts heavy frost damage on the vine.  The hybrids do much better. That is because since they are direct producers (not grafted) they can send shoots up from the ground THAT season and produce a crop.  Also, many hybrids were bred to have a secondary crop, to have at least 1/2 a normal crop if hit by a late spring frost. With vinifera, after an especially hard late frost, there is NO secondary crop so there is no fruit crop at all AND with an esp. hard frost, the scion (top part of the vine) can be killed completely, so that all that remains is the rootstock which cannot provide any grapes. Further, Heritage and Cool Climate hybrids roll with the punches better than vinifera with what “Mother Nature” gives us …. as we have more variable growing conditions due to climate change which is bringing with it more violent weather patterns with more rain, droughts, heat, and variable hot cold temperatures, hybrids do better.

The higher resistance of hybrids to fungus and insect damage is also reflected in MUCH lower material and labor costs to grow these varieties. Vinifera grapes require much “hotter”, i.e., poisonous spray material to protect the crop than hybrids require. Also, the number of times that you need to spray vinifera with these “hot” chemicals is two to three times as many applications as the number of times needed for hybrids AND the spray materials to be used are much cheaper than that used for hybrids. This means spraying vinifera grapes 12 times a year as opposed to the 4 times needed for hybrid grapes.  There is growing interest in growing grapes and other fruits either organically, semi-organically, and very much in a sustainable manner. It is nearly HOPELESS to grow vinifera organically and it has a much higher carbon footprint to grow than hybrids.

There are so many more hybrid and cool climate heritage grape varieties available to select from when setting out a vineyard. With vinifera, the “choices” are between the top 5 varieties, (In the Northeast, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Riesling), while with hybrids, there are scores of varieties that the grower can choose from to produce a sound and varied crop. This adds to diversity in the field, so that when the violent weather pattern hits the vineyard, if the grower has 10 different hybrid varieties (not just 1 or 2), the grower has a much higher probability of having a crop that produces a profit for the grower because maybe 5 of his/her varieties will still do fine with the adverse weather conditions that we are facing.

Possessing a diversity of grape varieties in each vineyard does add to the biodiversity of the plant material in the field. That means that the fungus and insect pests that can hit a vineyard can be muted because each variety has a different vulnerability to insects and various fungus diseases. However, if the grower has only 1 or 2 varieties, if a fungus or insect pest gets into the vineyard, it can wipe out the entire crop. Diversification is a strength. 

That was the first part of your question. The second is what are the benefits of making wine from these Heritage and Cool Climate hybrid grape varieties? Short answer — many many benefits. The exciting thing about making wines with Heritage and other Cool Climate varieties is the large variability in flavors, body, textures, and colors that a winemaker or co-ferment brewer has available to them to make their beverages.  Varieties such as Baco Noir, Verdelet, Chelois, Bacchus, Seyval Blanc, Agawam, Empire State, Jefferson, Lindley, Leon Millot, Chambourcin, Massasoit, Burdin Noir, Le Colonel, Marion, and so many more, have a broad spectrum of flavors, aromas, colors and textures which makes it very easy to make very fun wines and co-ferments. These many different grape varieties can be used in so many different ways to make very different fun wines and co-ferments.  Also, these wines tend to be fresher high acid wines that are more appealing to a new generation of consumers, with less alcohol, which is a plus for consumers both young and old.

Today’s consumers want very fruity fun wines and the Heritage and Cool Climate provide those in flavors and colors that are exciting.  Some of our Rogers hybrids developed in Salem, MA in the 1850s, have colors like electric blue, hot pink, deep purple, and other fun colors. 

Back to the economics and high productivity of growing Heritage and other Cool Climate grape varieties. Since they are more productive than vinifera AND can be grown with much fewer cost inputs of labor, chemicals, and other production costs, the cost of these varieties is MUCH less expensive than vinifera grapes …. which means that the cost to produce these fun and innovative wines is probably HALF of the cost of making a vinifera wine.  This means that these innovative products can be provided to the consumer at a much lower cost. 

It is an honor to work with both Alfie and Deanna at Dear Native Grapes to make fun wines, be it table wines, natural wines, or Pet Nats. I would rather have them speak for themselves, but I believe that we have a deep commitment to producing grapes and wines in a sustainable manner that uses far fewer pesticides and has a far lower carbon footprint. They are experimenting with making wine in many different styles for fun and for the enjoyment of our customers. I will let Alfie and Deanna talk about the grape varieties they have planted at their farm in Walton, NY, and the wines and wine styles they are striving to use to make a quality and fun product.”

Alfie’s Response: “It’s an honor to work with you, Steve! You have been our invaluable mentor throughout our journey. 

“Deanna and I started ‘Dear Native Grapes’ with the goal of renewing an appreciation for America’s forgotten wine grapes. Both of us came into this with very little knowledge of winemaking or farming. But we were instantly hooked by the story of Prohibition in the 1920s and how much we lost in both the diversity of grape varieties and knowledge in wine growing. We were really driven by the thought that we could help reinvigorate something that was once valuable and productive. 

While doing research for this project, we were inspired by the work of TerraVox winery in Missouri which has been diligently working with native varieties suited to the midwest, as well as Steve Casscles’ written works, especially his book ‘Grapes of the Hudson Valley And Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and Canada’. Actually, one of the first wines we ever tasted from native varieties was made by Steve. He made it from a Hudson Valley heirloom variety called ‘Empire State’. It was so graceful and floral. We still remember its flavors and aromas. Our eyes were opened to the fact that we could create a sustainable farm and winery business in the Northeast by using the right grape varieties that could thrive in this region.  

So after several years of saving up, taking business planning courses online, and volunteering at local wineries, we were finally able to afford a down payment on some farmland. We ended up in Walton, NY, in the western area of the Catskills, which is not really known for its grape growing due to the harsh climate. So our whole idea really hinged on choosing the right grape varieties that could withstand the extremes of the region.

In the spring of 2020, we planted 5 acres of grapes among three different categories: 

  1. Contemporary cold-hardy, disease-resistant varieties like Petite Pearl, Crimson Pearl, Marquette, Frontenac, Brianna, and Itasca.
  2. Heirloom American varieties like Delaware, Empire State, Wine King. Some of these we propagated from cuttings from Steve’s vineyard. 
  3. Experimental crosses are not yet available to the public. These came from modern-day grape breeders who are working to identify little-known native species that hold promise in the Northeast. Some include crosses from grape species like Vitis aestivalis, Vitis acerifolia and Vitis bicolor. 

We are now four years into this project, in what seems to be a never-ending (and very sharp!) learning curve. But we’re excited to see our vines grow and we’ve already begun to identify grape varieties that have withstood the many climactic and environmental challenges we’ve experienced in the short timeline of our vineyard. An interesting variety for us has been Petite Pearl. Bred and selected in Minnesota by grape-grower Tom Plocher, this variety seems unbothered by disease pressure on our site, it’s extremely cold hardy, and most importantly, its late bud-break has managed to escape the dangerous spring frosts we’ve been having in New York. Last year we were able to produce a few gallons of wine from it, and its flavors and aromas are earthy and reminiscent of darker fruit. However, its clusters are very small, which means we’d need a much larger volume to produce a significant amount of juice. 

We’ve also been surprised by the qualities of Delaware, which is not nearly as vigorous as some of the Minnesota varieties, but once it becomes established, it’s easy to prune and manage, and it produces beautiful clusters of red fruit. It’s so exciting to see some of these heirloom varieties express themselves on our site.”

Wpawinepirate: Tell us about your wine journey and vision for growing and making wine from Heritage/Cool Climate hybrid grapes. 

Casscles’s Response: “How I got into grape growing is that I grew up in Marlboro, NY in the Hudson Valley, an area that has many orchards, vineyards, and berry patches.  I had the fortune of living near Benmarl Vineyards and worked in the early years of Benmarl when it was established by the Miller family (Mark, Dene, Eric, and Kim). I have kept in touch with the Miller Family and my friends the Spaccarelli Family who now own Benmarl. I learned so much from working with Eric and Kim Miller about winemaking and life. I have been truly blessed and the many people who worked at Benmarl, are and continue to be family friends. From Benmarl, I learned about many of the French-American hybrids that I continue to use today.  My favorites are Baco Noir, Chelois, Foch, Leon Millot (reds) Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Verdelet, and Vignoles (whites). 

My vision was then and continues to be to give growers the tools and grape varieties that can be grown at a profit so they can remain in farming. Further, that will be of sufficient quality and productivity so that local wineries can make quality wines at affordable prices so that everyone at the end of a long hard day can have a glass of a quality local wine at affordable prices. Doing this can help to keep more farms in operation and quality farmland in farming and not chewed up in more housing developments. Working with, studying, identifying either Heritage grape varieties or other Cool Climate grapes, and developing methods to grow these grapes more economically is part of this effort to keep farmland in farming and to preserve those who either are in farming or wish to enter into it. It is so great to work with Alfie and Deanna because they have similar goals and work ethic to make this happen. 

To advance this mission, in addition to studying such varieties, I have written, and thankfully have published, many articles to help guide those growers who want to grow hardy grape varieties that can be grown “sustainably”. In addition to Alfie and Deanna, I am so proud to work with other local grows such as Shawn Henry and his daughters Abbie and Emily of the Quimby Farm in Marlboro, NY,  Jed & Jaime Radliff of Fonda, NY, Marvin Baum of the new High Tor Vineyards in Rockland County, NY, and Doug and Mirada Russell of Russell Orchards of Ipswich, MA. Together, along with Alfie and Deanna, we are forging a pathway to plant more vineyards of these Heritage varieties, propagate them to establish even more vineyards, make wine and co-ferments from these varieties, and attract new and old customers to purchase these fun beverages that can be grown sustainably and so that family farms can remain in business.“

Alfie’s Response: “We believe ‘ Dear Native Grapes’ has the potential to reimagine American wine. By expanding the varieties of grapes grown and offered to consumers, we can broaden people’s imagination. Our small winery hopes to show others what American wine could be – beautifully diverse, unabashedly unique, and wonderfully approachable. 

If you think of a grape like Pinot Noir, it’s had over 600 years of human cultivation. Through slow observation and selection, the first people who farmed it started the process of shaping it to be what it is today. With American wine grapes, that process was largely halted due to historical events like Prohibition, followed by the Great Depression and WWII, and it’s just now barely restarting. We think it’s important to look at the past for answers that our ancestors have already solved and then build upon them. The Hudson Valley region in New York used to be a hotspot for horticultural innovation in the 1800s. It’s cool to think that the process of experimentation is once again alive in many other regions across the country. We might not find our American equivalent to Pinot Noir in our lifetime, but we can certainly begin to identify the great qualities in our own varieties.

We recently came across an article in the Smithsonian Magazine about Dagia Rangione, an Italian scientist who has dedicated her life to identifying and hunting down ancient varieties of fruit depicted in Renaissance paintings. Most of these heirloom varieties have long disappeared from the Italian countryside, as agriculture became industrialized over the past 200 years. The piece resonates greatly with us when she states how many of the older fruit varieties hold the keys to resilience and genetic diversity. We feel the same way about  American grapes. In the article, Rangione closes with a poignant sentiment: ‘We need these old varieties to answer for the problems of the future. Without them, without roots, we are just leaves in the wind.’

At its core, Dear Native Grapes is an educational project designed to shed light on valuable grape varieties that could pave the way for more diverse, climate-resilient winemaking, energizing local economies in the process. Every year, we host visitors to share our farming methods, which are largely based on holistic management. We’re able to farm this way because our varieties actually like to grow here and have the inherent genetics to thrive in our climate. This exchange of knowledge is key to our mission, as we try to save these varieties for future generations. Our mission is not simply to make wine from these varieties, but to offer others a viable path for doing the same.”

When growing a vineyard of wine grapes, as with any of life’s endeavors, the ready availability of options always enhances the probability of success. In the agricultural community, the ability to foresee potential problems is a skill set only honed to a fine edge with experience. Planting a crop that can survive and prosper under many adverse conditions is essential to any project’s long-term sustainability. Diversifying the varieties of grape vines planted in a vineyard has proven beneficial and has justified the old adage “Diversity is a Strength”.  

I sincerely appreciate Steve Casscles and Alfie Alcántara for taking time from their busy schedules to share this invaluable information and their unique perspectives on this timely subject. If you have any questions feel free to contact them  

(Steve) cassclesjs@yahoo.com

 (Alfie) alfie.alcantara@gmail.com

http://dearnativegrapes.com 

Photo Credit: J. Stephen Casscles, Alfredo “Alfie” Alcantara, and Dear Native Grapes

Interview: Emily Dockery, Executive Director: Michigan Wine Collaborative

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I recently had the pleasure of interviewing Emily Dockery, Executive Director of The Michigan Wine Collaborative. She explained what The Michigan Wine Collaborative is, its mission, and how they are achieving those goals. I also took the opportunity to have her tell me about what we can expect when visiting Michigan Wine Country.

1. What was the vision that led to the creation of the Michigan Wine Collaborative?

The Michigan Wine Collaborative was formed in 2016 when the news became official that the Michigan Grape & Wine Industry Council would be dissolved and transition into the Michigan Craft Beverage Council. The Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council was the grape and wine industry’s only state-funded resource that provided marketing, research, support, and more to the state’s winegrowers and wine producers. Facing this loss many in the grape and wine industry saw a need to form a statewide, industry-funded group to supplement losses that the industry would face as the funding, which previously came from the Council, would now be dedicated to the four sectors of Michigan craft beverage including beer, spirits, cider, and wine. A group of winemakers, producers, and growers came together to form the Michigan Wine Collaborative. 

2. What is the MWC’s mission and how is it achieving those goals?

The mission of the MWC is to enhance the sustainability and profitability of the Michigan wine industry by supporting wineries, growers, and other businesses and individuals connected to the industry – today and for future generations. We are passionate about filling the role of the flagship ambassador for the Michigan wine industry by amplifying the Michigan brand, providing resources, and fostering connections for the wine community. It is important to us to consider sustainability not only in the sense of the environment but also for the industry as a whole, so we work hard in the areas of workforce development, marketing, inclusion, and diversity to expand the industry, and grassroots outreach to increase awareness for Michigan agriculture, viticulture, and of course winemaking. 

Our committees within the MWC are dedicated to establishing and executing programs to provide resources, support, and access to those ingrained in our industry and also to those entering the industry. 

Our Sustainability Committee is working on launching a Michigan-focused vineyard certification program called VineBalance along with the Sustainable Ag App created in collaboration with Michigan State University that empowers Michigan grape growers with the tools to farm responsibly and with longevity. The VineBalance program is currently piloting with vineyards and growers across the state. 

Our Inclusion & Expansion Committee is focused on cultivating safe and reward-driven entry points for those historically excluded from the wine industry, especially people of color, to participate and thrive in the Michigan grape and wine industries. In 2023, we launched our DREAM wine collaboration which helped to fund the first year of the official MWC Inclusion & Expansion Educational Fund. This allowed us to offer educational rewards to individuals of color looking to expand their careers in Michigan wine in the areas of production and hospitality. We have been recognized for these efforts through organizations and publications such as:

VESTA Recognizes MWC for Diversity & Inclusion Efforts – Michigan Wine Collaborative

Emerging U.S. Wine Regions with Centuries of Winemaking History (sommtv.com)

We have also been the first in the country to develop a 4-H Viticulture Club in collaboration with our Inclusion & Expansion Committee and our Education & Research Committee with our partners at Michigan State University. This project is known as the MWC Talent Pipeline and connects to our Inclusion & Expansion Recruitment Pipeline which works in tandem to create a sustainable pool of talent for the Michigan grape and wine industries to pull from. We are hoping to be able to spark interest in agriculture, and specifically viticulture for youths throughout the state with our 4-H Viticulture Club. However, a major focus of the program was to establish educational vineyards within the city of Detroit to tap into populations often left out of agriculture and viticulture in addition to increasing urban green spaces and expanding Michigan wine country east. More on this program and our video library can be found below…

Michigan Viticulture is Growing Strong in the State | Michigan Ag Today

Five Youth Programs in Viticulture | Wine Enthusiast

4-H viticulture pilot pairs youth with wineries – Brownfield Ag News

MWC Talent Pipeline 4-H Viticulture Video Curriculum – YouTube

Our Marketing Committee has been steadfast towards the goal of solidifying the image and culture of Michigan wine by forming a statewide wine brand to bring new consumers to the Michigan wine table. Taste Michigan, funded by a USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant, was a project spanning over 2 years. In 2023 the brand launched the Cool is Hot Campaign which encouraged Michigan wine drinkers to learn about and enjoy cool climate grapes that thrive in the state. Earlier this year the brand and campaign were recognized at the Wine Industry Network Marketing Awards for Association Marketing awarding the Taste Michigan™ brand and the Cool is Hot campaign.

Taste Michigan: Cool is Hot – YouTube

This is honestly a very brief preview of the work and projects the MWC is invested in and executing. We stay VERY busy and achieve an exponential amount of things with extremely limited resources. We are always looking for sponsors and donors for us to be able to continue our important work as Michigan Wine’s only statewide nonprofit industry group. You can learn more about how to contribute, join, or sponsor below…

Sponsors & Partners – Michigan Wine Collaborative

Membership – Michigan Wine Collaborative

Michigan Wine Collaborative – Donate (wildapricot.org)

3. What can we expect when visiting Michigan wine country? 

Michigan has 5 AVAs, each with a distinct terroir, culture, and offerings. I encourage all wine lovers to explore each one and indulge in their individualistic identities. Our AVAs along the west side of the state and Lake Michigan (Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, Old Mission Peninsula, and Leelanau Peninsula) offer a vast range of wine styles and varieties including Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and dozens of more vinifera and hybrid offerings. Michigan thrives on tourism whether it is during the warmer summer months when visitors can enjoy our beaches, water sports, hiking, fine and casual dining, and more…the fall when the harvest is peaking, the colors are incredible, and the air starts to crisp, or the winter where water sports are traded for things like snowshoeing and snowmobiling…all seasons and activities pair with Michigan wine as you are sure to find a winery very close to you at almost all times. Our newest AVA, Tip of the Mitt, is pioneering growing the newest and most innovative grape varieties including Marquette, Itasca, Frontenac, and other cool and funky hybrids. There is just so much the state has to offer when it comes to wines…within the official AVAs and across both peninsulas. We have over 190 wineries in the state and so many stories to share. 

I admit that my knowledge of Michigan wine is limited. But after hearing what Emily had to say about the exciting things happening in the vineyards and wineries of Michigan, my interest has been piqued. I will be exploring the possibilities Michigan wines offer and I hope you will too!

Photo Credit: Michigan Wine Collaborative

My Latest AWS Wine Journal Article

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I am happy to announce my latest article to be published in the American Wine Society Wine Journal is now available to be viewed on the emagazine website https://anyflip.com/wnfp/urfm/as a flip page publication free of charge. Simply go to https://anyflip.com/wnfp/urfm/, tap on the cover of the Summer edition, and swipe left to turn the pages like a print magazine. It is easier to read using an iPad, tablet, or laptop. My article appears on page 23 and is about the only vintner in North America growing the Romanian wine grape Fetească Neagră or “Black Maiden ” as it is commonly referred to in Romania. There are a lot of interesting stories in this edition. The cover story is part 2 of a three-part series by Simone FM Spinner, in which the AVAs and wine trails of North Carolina are discussed. M. Marshal reviews the J. Stephen Casscles book “Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and Canada” 2nd Edition. J. Stephen Casscles provides an in-depth look at the ancient but increasingly popular process of co-fermenting in the Northeast. These are just a few of the entertaining and informative articles that can be found in this edition. You can find all the back issues including my Saperavi story in the 2020 Spring edition by clicking on the AWS logo to the left of the https://anyflip.com/wnfp/urfm/ homepage. Enjoy!

Wine Review: Chateau Ste Michelle Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley 2022

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My posts featuring reviews of mass-produced and widely distributed wines have been very popular. The wines I taste for these articles can be easily found in your area. They are made to provide customers with a consistently reliable product in every bottle. 

Today’s wine is Chateau Ste Michelle Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley 2022. Chateau Ste Michelle is a mega-winery with an extensive portfolio of wines produced under several labels. Chateau Ste Michelle is again an independent entity after being a subsidiary of tobacco companies for almost forty years.

Chateau Ste Michelle Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley 2022 blends 98% Gewürztraminer and 2% Muscat Canelli. Wine Spectator gave it a rating of 88 points. It has a lush mouthfeel with a sweetness just below semi-sweet. Flavors of stone fruit dominate throughout, especially the flavors of apricots and cloves. I found it benefited from aeration. It is a perfect match for spicy Thai cuisine or similar dishes. It is a suitable companion for enjoying a quiet evening under the stars. A 750 ml bottle is usually priced at or below $13 but can be found under $10, making it a solid value choice for a weeknight wine.

Book Review: Taste My Life Through Food by Stanley Tucci

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If you are as big a fan of Stanley Tucci as I am, you will love this book. Stanley takes us on his lifelong odyssey with food and family. He begins with anecdotes about his childhood in the peaceful New York town of Katonah. He is the oldest of three children in a middle-class Italian-American family where the day’s activities culminate around the dining room table and what is for supper. You can hear that distinctive wry wit and humor that he is known for hilariously shining in his recollections of family events, all of which centered around food. These interactions would ultimately shape his entire life going forward. Tucci marks the milestones of his life involving people, places, and events not with dates on a calendar but with specific meals or other food-centric references. Just as he savors his life through culinary pursuits you will savor each chapter wishing you can linger a bit longer at the table with your host. The last chapter recounts his battle with oral cancer in vivid detail. He shares his candid memories, private thoughts, and emotions as his ordeal stretched endlessly over months that turned into years before his victorious complete recovery. I highly recommend this book to anyone who loves and understands the impact that food and family play in how you experience your journey through life. 

One final note for fans of Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy. Stanley Tucci is returning to television. National Geographic has confirmed it plans to film a new show starring Stanley Tucci in Italy. It will be a ten-part unscripted docuseries exploring ten regions of Italy. The project will be called “Tucci-The Heart of Italy”. It will be produced by Tucci’s Salt Productions and BBC Studios’ Factual Productions. 

Addio per ora 🇮🇹

Biltmore Estate Sangiovese Limited Release 2020

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On a visit to Asheville, North Carolina we toured the Biltmore Estate. Biltmore was the home of the Industrialist, George Vanderbilt. I highly recommend experiencing this remarkable piece of American history and learning about how it was on the cutting edge of many things we take for granted today. With the price of admission to the mansion and grounds you also receive a complimentary wine tasting at the winery. The winery at the Biltmore Estate is the most visited winery in North America. We enjoyed our tasting and purchased several bottles. Their wines are well made, good quality, and fairly priced. 

One of the bottles we bought was their Biltmore Estate Sangiovese Limited Release 2020. It is a ruby-colored wine with a medium body displaying more than ample acidity to pair with food while not overpowering its fruit flavors. Biltmore Estate Sangiovese Limited Release 2020 pairs perfectly with pasta in a hearty red sauce or grilled meat.

Ripepi De Chaunac Nouveau-Style

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Ripepi Winery and Vineyard is a 10-acre estate vineyard and boutique winery in the southwestern Pennsylvania town of Monongahela founded by Rich Ripepi in 1987. It has produced handcrafted artisanal wines for over 30 years. 

Ripepi De Chaunac Nouveau-Style is a light-bodied, garnet-colored, unoaked dry red wine displaying distinctive cranberry, raspberry, and slightly earthy with a tart finish.

http://ripepiwine.com  724-292-8351 call for hours. 

Book Review: Reflections of a Vintner by Tor Kenward

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Reflections of a Vintner Stories and Seasonal Wisdom From a Lifetime in Napa Valley by Tor Kenward, Forewords by Robert M. Parker and Thomas Keller. Imagine relaxing in Adirondack chairs overlooking a lovely Napa Valley vineyard on a perfect summer evening with Tor Kenward while enjoying a glass of his award-winning wine as he recalls the people, places, and events that shaped, not only his wine journey but his life. If this sounds like an intriguing opportunity to hear the candid memories of a vintner who witnessed history, as well as making it, as an aspiring winemaker during the formative years of the current Napa Valley wine culture then this book is for you. The book is chaptered as months of the calendar year and touches upon what a vintner is thinking as each month unfolds but is predominantly the story of Tor Kenward’s life as a winemaker told in his own words.

How To Propagate Grapevines From Cuttings. Now Is The Time To Start!

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Now is the time to start propagating your grape vines by cuttings. I am reposting the article that Steve Casscles and I collaborated on earlier this year. Good luck and Happy New Year! 

The following article is a collaborative effort between myself and Stephen Casscles, a leading authority on the propagation and cultivation of cool climate and heritage grapevines. It is a detailed account of the procedures for propagating new grapevines from the cuttings of an existing vine. Thank you Steve for being so generous with your time and knowledge. All photos in this article are courtesy of Stephen Casscles. If you need more information about how to propagate vines, consult older books written by Philip Wagner, which are still available, or contact your local cooperative extension agent who can direct you to excellent brochures that have been produced by your local agricultural state university.

    If you have or can obtain clippings from a grapevine that produces excellent fruit, it is easy to reproduce as many vines/clones of that vine as you want. Starting new vines from the clippings of a mother vine ensures you will grow an exact copy of the vine and it will crop the same quality grapes as the original vine. Be sure that the mother vine that you select for your cuttings is strong, and exhibits no indications of viruses or diseases. Some vines, that have curled leaves, odd-looking clusters, or off-leaf colors have been contaminated with a virus. Do not use these vines as you are simply propagating diseased and virus-laden vines and not the strong virus-free vines that you want.

    The next step is up to the propagator, but Steve said he was taught to nip off a straight cut one inch above the top bud and make an angled cut at the bottom of the cane just below the bud node. Making your angled cut at the bottom of the stem easily shows where the top of the cutting is from the bottom which makes it easier when setting out your nursery cuttings, it also allows the cutting to be easily planted in the soil. No matter how you cut your ends, make sure you are consistent so that you will always plant your cuttings correctly, bottom side down in the soil. Dipping the bottom end of the stem into rooting hormones helps promote root growth, but is not necessary. You can find rooting hormones at your local garden center or nursery. If you are only rooting a few cuttings, fill a potting container with your local soil, if it is good well-drained loam soil, if it isn’t mix it with potting soil to improve its drainage.  Make sure your container is deep enough to accommodate your clippings, but if you are propagating a lot of material consider digging a shallow trench and reserving enough loose soil to fill in around your stems.

    These trenches can easily be located in your vegetable garden, since this soil has been worked up for many years, and often has a fence around it to keep out the wildlife that may like to browse on your newly installed cuttings. When planting your cuttings, bury them vertically three to four nodes deep with the bottom side down into the ground, leaving the remaining nodes exposed above the soil level. Remember to plant the bottom of the stem down with the straight-cut end above the ground.

    Keep the soil well watered, but not soggy throughout the first year when your cuttings are establishing themselves. For those in potted containers, the cuttings should be placed in a frost-free location with bright indirect sunlight. If you have more than one row of nursery cuttings in your nursery, it is recommended to mulch the cuttings with straw (not hay) to keep down the weeds and retain soil moisture.

    Steve explained the difference between taking cuttings from your vine and propagating them as a single project and cloning in which you separate individual canes that have a certain desirable mutation to create an entirely new variety of the original grapevine. Steve gave me an excellent example that was easy to understand. “My understanding is that cloning would be finding an abnormal sport of a vine that is different and you cut that unique cane off to propagate it. For example, Frontenac Gris is only a regular Frontenac when it was noticed that a separate cane had bronze-colored grapes and not red.  So cloning would be separating and propagating that “clone”, but if you are propagating wood, you just collect your wood and go at it.”

    You must plant more cuttings than you need to compensate for some not surviving. As a dear departed friend of Steve’s, Joel Fry of the Bartrams Garden in Philadelphia used to say, “Plant two of everything, and one will die”.  How many to plant is the question. Steve offered his advice based on years of experience in this area of viticulture. “I find that different varieties propagate at different rates. For example, Baco Noir, which is a part Riparia variety tends to have a higher success rate because it is a Riparia. Even with Riparia, I would plan for a 20% non-success rate for varieties such as Delaware, which is a part Bourquinian species hybrid, do not take as readily, so I would expect a 40% death rate.”  I would recommend propagating as many cuttings as possible using only the strongest ones to satisfy your needs and giving the extras away. Vines can also be rooted in water, but you will need to change the water regularly to prevent disease. Once you see the stems/cuttings rooting, you must transplant them into the soil.

    Whether you set out a nursery in your home garden or place them in pots in the spring, you need to wait an entire year to ensure that your cuttings have sufficient roots before they are set out in the field the following spring. After your cuttings have developed a strong root system they can be transplanted to their permanent location. 

    You probably have heard vintners say the clone number for a specific variety of grapes planted in their vineyard. An example of this would be the Pinot Noir Dijon clones 114, 115, 667, and 777 which are the most widely planted Pinot Noir clones because of their reliability and productivity. When you drink any mass-produced Pinot Noir you are likely drinking wine made from these clones. It is easy to go down a “rabbit hole” when looking for clones of just about any grape variety when researching which clones to plant in your vineyard. Don’t let the sheer number of options overwhelm you. The answer to this question is a simple one, treat a clone like a different variety. Pick a clone you like and propagate that clone.

    Growing your own vines from cuttings is a rewarding venture both financially and from the sense of personal accomplishment you will feel when you harvest your first grapes. With the adverse effects of climate change being documented in vineyards around the world and the increased number of adverse weather events plaguing vintners, the answer to a  consistent and economically sustainable fruit crop may lay in the past with heritage grape varieties, older cool climate hybrids, and new hybrids that are being developed. Growing heritage and cool climate hybrid grape vines that have adapted to survive many weather-related challenges over time could be a critical puzzle piece in the future viability of our vineyards, for both hobby and commercial grape growers. In addition, these varieties tend to be more productive and can be grown more sustainably with fewer pesticide/fungicide applications. They are direct producers that do not need to be planted on a rootstock. This means that if we witness a very cold winter or late spring frost, which kills that part of the vine above the ground, canes will come up from the ground to produce a crop in the same growing season.

    With that objective in mind, Stephen Casscles continues to labor on his long-term project, the Cedar Cliff Vineyards Heritage Grape\Wine Project, aimed at preserving heritage and lesser-known cool climate grape varieties in Northern America. If you have any questions about his work at Cedar Cliff Vineyards please contact Stephen Casscles cassclesjs@yahoo.com  To further his work, Stephen has established a set of three cooperating nurseries in Marlboro, NY, Fonda, NY, and Ipswich, MA where you can purchase already rooted vines and/or grape cuttings. If you are interested in obtaining cuttings of these unique vines, please feel free to contact Stephen Casscles cassclesjs@yahoo.com.  Sadly, most of these cuttings or vines are not available at commercial nurseries, hence we need to propagate them on our own to increase the availability of these unique virus-free/ disease-free grape varieties. For additional information on these heritage and cool climate grape hybrids, the 2nd edition of Steve’s book “Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate Regions of the US and Canada”  is available at http://www.flintminepress.com .