Tag RED Wine

New Book Release: The Wine Grapes Of Chungcheongbuk-Do, Korea

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A groundbreaking new book on Korean and North American Cool Climate grape varieties is now out! It is the first winemaking grape book devoted to Korean and American Native grape varieties published in Korea. What is truly unique and unexpected is that the book is printed with one half in Korean and the identical other half in English. 

J. Stephen Casscles Esq. and his coauthor Young Kim have just released an authoritative first-of-its-kind winemaking grape book focused on Korean and North American Native grape varieties to be published in Korea. This text will be an influential source in the selection of grape varieties for Korean winemakers and vintners seeking guidance with their decisions on which grapes are the most compatible with their terroir and the wines they can successfully craft from them. I asked Steve to tell us about his latest book  The Wine Grapes of Chungcheongbuk-Do, Korea.

​ “I have been working, for the past two years, with my very talented co-author Young Kim of Sanmac Winery in Yeongdong, Korea, to write and publish our book: The Wine Grapes of Chungcheongbuk-do, Korea. The Korean province of Chungcheongbuk-do is a centrally located area in the Republic of Korea that specializes in fruit growing and wine production. While this book concentrates on the grape and wine industry of Korea, it has many applications for cool-climate grape growers and winemakers in North America. This is because the weather in our cool climate regions of North America is very similar to the climate and growing conditions in South Korea. Hence, these quality Korean hybrids can thrive in North America as well. Many of these Korean inter-specific hybrids are dual-purpose grapes that are not only seedless table grapes, but are very fungus disease resistant, monsoon season resistant, hardy, productive, and make quality wine.

Two years ago, I was truly blessed to have spent over two weeks in Yeongdong-gun and Seoul, Korea. Here, I met many talented grape growers and winemakers (including our book’s co-author Kim Young), visited cultural sites, and tasted wonderful Korean wines. In Korea, in addition to enjoying a wide variety of Korean cuisine, I had many fine French meals as there is an affinity for French cooking and wine in Korea. For example, in the smallish city of Yeongdong, it boasts not just one, but two quality French bakeries. The purpose of writing our book, The Wine Grapes of Chungcheongbuk-do, Korea was to put in print, for the first time, a book on Korean-developed interspecific hybrids and those grapes, many of which are grown in North America, that are currently being grown in Korea. Our book was published by the Chungbuk Grape Institute and the Wine Research Institute under the umbrella of the Chungbuk Agricultural Research and Extension Services, and the government of Yeongdong-gun, Korea, with support from the Rural Development Administration and the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs.

What especially attracted me to these Korean-developed hybrid grapes (that were developed by the Korean National government starting in 1963 to the present) was that many of these hybrids had “parents” that were my favorite cool climate grapes that are grown on the East Coast; grapes such as Delaware, Verdelet, Campbell Early, Himrod Seedless, and a few others. Korean grape hybrids to watch for include Cheongsoo, Cheongporang, Cheonghyang (whites) Chung Rang, and Saemaru for the reds. In addition to the Korean hybrid grapes, the book covers all of the other grape varieties used by the Korean wine industry, which are primarily American Native hybrid grape varieties such as Campbell Early, Delaware, Frontenac Gris, the NYS Geneva Experimental Station grape varieties Seneca and Sheridan, and the French-American hybrid Verdelet. In addition, the Korean industry grows several Japanese-developed hybrids, such as Kyoho, Muscat Bailey A, and Shine Muscat, which also have a preponderance of American genetic material in them, such as Campbell Early, Centennial, Eumelan, and Steuben.

If you have not been to the grape/wine regions of Korea, you should put this destination on your travel list. If you do so, I would be happy to point you in the right direction on where to go and what to see. Korea is a beautiful country with beautiful and welcoming people.

​It is our hope that this book will help Korean grape growers and winemakers understand the genetic makeup, growing characteristics, and winemaking ability of the grape varieties that are currently being grown in Korea, especially in Chungcheongbuk-do. Kim Young and I hope that our collective research and knowledge gleaned from my visit to Korea and research on these grape varieties will translate into advances not only for the Korean wine industry but also for our East Coast growers of cool climate inter-specific grape hybrids. These Korean hybrids are great in the field because they are fungus disease resistant, cold/heat tolerant, monsoon rain resistant, productive, can be grown sustainably AND they make beautiful wines, especially the whites. 

​The book is in both the Korean and English languages. Most of these books will remain in Korea to help grape growers and winemakers there. To increase access to the North American cool climate grape/wine industry, I have been distributing our books to opinion leaders in the United States, including wine writers, university and private grape breeders, agricultural colleges, university libraries, grape growers, and winemakers. The point of publicizing and distributing this book in the United States is to tell our growers and winemakers of the existence of these wonderful cool climate grape varieties that were bred in Korea. Hopefully, we will soon be able to bring these hybrid cultivars to North America after they have gone through the importation quarantine process. This book should increase the readers’ devotion to cool-climate grape hybrids because they are productive, can be grown sustainably, and make beautiful wines. Further, it sparks more interest in cool-climate grape varieties in general, be they from Korea, the United States, or Europe.

The Wine Grapes of Chungcheongbuk-do, Korea was highlighted by the Chungbuk Grape Institute and the Wine Research Institute at the Institute’s recent tenth anniversary meeting. The book was the basis of this year’s growers’ and winemakers’ seminar. It was announced at this seminar that the book was the first winemaking grape book devoted to Korean and American Native grape varieties to be published in Korea. Because of its high demand, our book is now almost sold out, hence, we plan to go to a second printing for the United States and Canadian market. Further, this book will become available as an e-book to increase its circulation for the benefit of our cool-climate grape growers in the United States and Canada, in addition to those in Korea, Japan, and Taiwan.​

​Both Kim Young and I hope that this book will increase the reader’s devotion to cool climate grape hybrids, wherever they are grown because they can be grown sustainably and make beautiful wines. Or that it sparks an interest in cool climate inter-specific grape hybrids be they from Korea, the United States, or Europe. We will announce when the e-book is to be made available in the next few months. In addition, there is now an effort to import these sustainably grown Korean wines into the United States so that they can be enjoyed by all.” 

J. Stephen Casscles, Esq. (cassclesjs@yahoo.com) has been a grape grower for over 45 years in the Hudson Valley and worked at leading wineries on the East Coast. Currently, he is a winemaker at Dear Native Grapes Winery in Walton, New York http://dearnativegrapes.com. Stephen wrote Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and Canada: 2nd Ed. Revised and Updated to Include New England Grapes (2023), which details how to make wine, establish & maintain a vineyard, and the growing and winemaking characteristics of over 200 cool climate grape varieties. See https://www.flintminepress.com. His latest book is The Wine Grapes of Chungcheongbuk-do Korea. (2024). At his farm Cedar Cliff Vineyards & Nursery, in Athens, NY, he grows 88 rare French-American hybrids and 19th Century heritage grape varieties from the Hudson Valley & Massachusetts which he evaluates, makes wine from, and lectures about. He also lectures on wine, grape cultivation, 19th-century American horticulture, and landscape architecture at botanical gardens and historical societies throughout the Northeast. He is working on a new book, Grown in Queens: The Prince Nurseries of Flushing, NY, and the Birth of American Horticulture and Viticulture.

Kim Young is the owner of Sanmac Winery in Yeongdong, Korea. sanmacwinery.com She, along with her husband Youn Young-June, grows the grapes, makes and sells the wine, and is active in the Yeongdong wine industry community. She is an educator of the history of Korean wine and a certified WSET 3 Advanced Sommelier.

Thank you Steve and Kim Young for your tireless work on this book. It will be a valuable resource for winemakers everywhere.

Photo Credit: J. Stephen Casscles Esq. and wpawinepirate.com

Book Review: Taste My Life Through Food by Stanley Tucci

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If you are as big a fan of Stanley Tucci as I am, you will love this book. Stanley takes us on his lifelong odyssey with food and family. He begins with anecdotes about his childhood in the peaceful New York town of Katonah. He is the oldest of three children in a middle-class Italian-American family where the day’s activities culminate around the dining room table and what is for supper. You can hear that distinctive wry wit and humor that he is known for hilariously shining in his recollections of family events, all of which centered around food. These interactions would ultimately shape his entire life going forward. Tucci marks the milestones of his life involving people, places, and events not with dates on a calendar but with specific meals or other food-centric references. Just as he savors his life through culinary pursuits you will savor each chapter wishing you can linger a bit longer at the table with your host. The last chapter recounts his battle with oral cancer in vivid detail. He shares his candid memories, private thoughts, and emotions as his ordeal stretched endlessly over months that turned into years before his victorious complete recovery. I highly recommend this book to anyone who loves and understands the impact that food and family play in how you experience your journey through life. 

One final note for fans of Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy. Stanley Tucci is returning to television. National Geographic has confirmed it plans to film a new show starring Stanley Tucci in Italy. It will be a ten-part unscripted docuseries exploring ten regions of Italy. The project will be called “Tucci-The Heart of Italy”. It will be produced by Tucci’s Salt Productions and BBC Studios’ Factual Productions. 

Addio per ora 🇮🇹

Biltmore Estate Sangiovese Limited Release 2020

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On a visit to Asheville, North Carolina we toured the Biltmore Estate. Biltmore was the home of the Industrialist, George Vanderbilt. I highly recommend experiencing this remarkable piece of American history and learning about how it was on the cutting edge of many things we take for granted today. With the price of admission to the mansion and grounds you also receive a complimentary wine tasting at the winery. The winery at the Biltmore Estate is the most visited winery in North America. We enjoyed our tasting and purchased several bottles. Their wines are well made, good quality, and fairly priced. 

One of the bottles we bought was their Biltmore Estate Sangiovese Limited Release 2020. It is a ruby-colored wine with a medium body displaying more than ample acidity to pair with food while not overpowering its fruit flavors. Biltmore Estate Sangiovese Limited Release 2020 pairs perfectly with pasta in a hearty red sauce or grilled meat.

Ripepi De Chaunac Nouveau-Style

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Ripepi Winery and Vineyard is a 10-acre estate vineyard and boutique winery in the southwestern Pennsylvania town of Monongahela founded by Rich Ripepi in 1987. It has produced handcrafted artisanal wines for over 30 years. 

Ripepi De Chaunac Nouveau-Style is a light-bodied, garnet-colored, unoaked dry red wine displaying distinctive cranberry, raspberry, and slightly earthy with a tart finish.

http://ripepiwine.com  724-292-8351 call for hours. 

Review: Meiomi Pinot Noir 2021

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The following review in my series of widely distributed wines is one with a storied lineage and a place in a controversial 2019 New York Times article. Meiomi Pinot Noir rode a wave of changing public perception and tastes as they shifted from Merlot to Pinot Noir. Started in 2006 by Joe Wagner, the son of Chuck Wagner, the proprietor of the famous Napa Valley winery Caymus Vineyards. Meiomi means “coast” in the language of the local Wappo and Yuki tribes and is a nod to the coast of California where the grapes for the wine are sourced. Meiomi was sold to Constellation Brands in 2015 and production was ramped up to meet increasing demand. 

Meiomi remains a good choice when purchasing a quality crowd-pleasing Pinot Noir for under $25. Just remember, Meiomi Pinot Noir is more of a semi-dry wine than a typically dry Pinot Noir. Colors of ruby/garnet give way to scarlet around the rim. It opens with notes of black cherry leading into jammy flavors of dark fruit and blackberry on a medium body. There are no sharp edges to this wine, from its acidity, tannins, or finish they are all rounded off by its above-average residual sugar (R.S.) content. 

The controversial New York Times article I referred to earlier was written by the world-famous wine critic Eric Asimov and in it he found Meiomi Pinot Noir the only “supermarket” wine mentioned he thought was worth drinking. As baseball legend Reggie Jackson once said “Opinions are like noses, everybody has one” and that would include you and me. When it comes to deciding whether you like a wine or not your opinion should be the only one that matters to you.

The Long and Winding Road

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Wine has become one of the most popular beverages in the world, and the wine industry continues to grow in complexity and diversity. As a result, there is an increasing demand for knowledgeable professionals in the field of winemaking. Earning a degree in winemaking can open up a multitude of opportunities for individuals looking to pursue a career path in this dynamic industry.

There are several educational opportunities available for individuals interested in earning a degree in winemaking.

Everyone has a different motivation for wanting to expand their knowledge of winemaking and there are plenty of options to achieve your goal, no matter what it is. Depending on what your goals are you may find that informal education through conventions, conferences, and online forums will provide the information and expertise you need. But sometimes, pursuing a formal education will provide the necessary resources to advance your ambitions in the wine industry. 

An online program is a good, low-cost alternative to starting your wine education at a college or university. A good starting point might be considering the entry-level VESTA (Viticulture Enology Science and Technology Alliance) program administered by the National Science Foundation http://vesta-USA.org You can earn a certificate that can help you move to the next level of your education, whether that is college or elsewhere. 

Those looking for a career outside of the production side may want to consider exploring the possibilities in the hospitality industry. The Wine & Spirit Educational Trust is a leader in the field of online courses and certifications. WSET certifications can be earned in relation to your increasing level of competency and ability. Someone seeking to acquire an in-depth understanding of wine and seeking job opportunities where they can share their passion for wine should seriously consider this option. 

Crafting a long and prosperous life in the wine industry involves as much hands-on experience and formal education as you can obtain. Enrolling in a college or university wine education program can provide you with the skills and guidance you will need to succeed by exposing you to the appropriate course work, as well as hands-on internships with industry professionals. I have listed a few links below to the better-known institutions in different regions of the United States. There are many more viable options out there that you should research and compare. 

Before you decide on a path to pursue your dreams make sure you have done your research as to all the ways to get there and don’t be afraid to reconsider your plans if other opportunities arise along the way. Earning a degree in winemaking can lead to a variety of career paths, such as winemaker, vineyard manager, wine marketer, or wine educator. Depending on your professional aspirations and interests, you can pursue advanced degrees or enroll in specialized programs such as wine tourism, wine retail, and wine journalism. I have never talked with a winemaker that said they traveled a straight line to get where they are today. Be open to change and embrace the journey.

Cornell University Ithaca, NY http://grapesandwine.cals.cornell.edu/undergraduate

The University of California Davis Davis, CA http://cpe.ucdavis.edu/winemakingcert

Michigan State University East Lansing, MI https://canr.msu.edu/iat/viticulture

Washington State University Pullman, WA http://wine.wsu.edu/education

Virginia Tech Blacksburg, VA http://www.vtwines.info/

Bloom Where You Are Planted

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San Marco, a new vinifera wine grape cross variety has been generating plenty of buzz in the eastern United States since the Quarella family, owners of Bellview Winery imported vines from Italy and planted them in their Landisville, New Jersey vineyard more than ten years ago. 

My friend and winemaker Jerry Pompa (Instagram: @jerrypompa) piqued my interest in this promising grape after he attended a Quarella family presentation at the Eastern Winery Expo 2023. 

San Marco was created in 1993 by Marco Stefanini at Trentino’s Foundation Edmund Mach. Trentino-Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost region. It has weather conditions similar to those found on the East Coast of the United States with its temperature extremes, both hot and cold. 

San Marco is a cross between two grapes of the Alto Adige, Teroldego and Lagrien. You can find my review of Castel Sallegg Lagrein 2019 and my interview with Castel Sallegg Director, Ulrike Platter by scrolling down this blog page. 

San Marco has loose, medium-sized oval berries with deep pigmentation of skin and flesh, like another teinturier favorite of mine, Saperavi. Cane pruning is required and training on a VSP (vertical shoot position) trellis provides the best results in the U.S., as opposed to the pergola method used in Italy. One thing holding this variety back in the U.S. is the discovery of Grapevine Pinot Gris Virus (GPGV) and Grapevine red blotch-associated Virus (GPBaV) on some vines. Growers in Italy have experienced this same issue but say it has yet to affect the quality of their fruit or spread to neighboring vines. Virus-free vines should be available from Double A Vineyards doubleavineyards.com for $13.50 but are currently sold out. Jerry’s tasting notes for Bellview San Marco Outer Coastal Plain 2020 mention a dense plum color, black fruit, spice, cherries, and chocolate. 

It is exciting to see a new red wine grape emerge with the potential that San Marco has. The wine culture in America continues to evolve and improve, albeit slowly but the future of this grape and others look bright.

Photo Credit: Jerry Pompa and winemaking.com

Book Release: Grapes of the Hudson Valley 2nd Edition

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I heard from Steve Casscles the other day. He told me his authoritative book about cool climate grapes of the Hudson Valley and other regions of North America has been published in a revised and updated Second Edition that includes two new chapters on rarely covered 19th-century Heritage grape varieties developed in New England. Steve gave me a peek at a couple of interesting facts he uncovered in his extensive research.

Catawba is 1/2 vinifera, and Concord comes from Catawba and is 1/4 vinifera !! There are many Catawba and Concord hybrids so what we thought was all labrusca is really 1/4 or so vinifera.

Also that the ES Rogers hybrids have been forgotten and are really good grape varieties that were used by TV Munson for his many grape breeds, and Winchell, a chance seedling from VT is the basis of all the Cornell white wine grapes.

Steve also provided me with an in-depth look at what you can expect to find in his latest publication. 

I am very pleased to announce that the newly revised second edition of Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and Canada, 2nd Edition, Revised & Updated to Include New England Grapes is NOW IN PRINT AND AVAILABLE at  http://www.flintminepress.com 

This second edition contains two new chapters on rarely-covered 19th-century Heritage grape varieties developed in New England. I grow many of these varieties, such as the E. S. Rogers hybrids, Agawam, Salem, Massasoit, and Lindley, and grapes bred by E. Bull, Captain Moore, Diane Crehore (one of the few women grape breeders in the US). These New England heritage varieties are hardy, fungus disease resistant, & productive in the field, and make quality wines in the cellar and co-ferments in the brewery.  These New England heritage grape varieties are now finding their way into co-ferment beer/wines.  Many of the Rogers’ hybrids found their way into the grape varieties bred by TV Munson.  

The book includes new revelations about the true genetic ancestry of grape varieties such as Catawba, Concord, Chambourcin, and Vignoles.  It updates the genetic history of Catawba and Concord now that it is clear that Catawba is one-half vinifera (Semillion) in its parentage and that Concord is an offspring of Catawba, which means it is one-quarter vinifera in its genetic ancestry. This is a significant revelation because there are many Concord and Catawba heritage hybrids such as Iona, Jefferson, Diamond, Diana, and Dutchess, which have now conclusively been determined to have significant European vinifera heritage. Further, it conclusively delineates the ancestry of the French-American winemaking grape varieties Chambourcin and Vignoles (thanks to Dr. Bruce Reisch for pointing out the new genetic information about Vignoles).

It evaluates over 200 cool climate grape varieties with an eye towards assisting fruit growers and winemakers across the United States, Canada, Northern Europe, and Northeast Asia to identify grape varieties that are hardy, fungus disease resistant, and productive so that they can be grown either in a sustainable manner with minimal pesticide applications, and in some cases organically.

This second edition will offer guidance to our struggling growers and wineries going forward as we jointly face our increasingly changing climate. The Cool Climate grape varieties that this book covers could help our local growers to identify and grow grape varieties that can be grown more sustainably, are productive and make quality wines, beer/wines, cider/wines, and distilled products.  

  Copies can be purchased at http://www.flintminepress.com.  

Thank you Steve for your tireless efforts to provide us with this important information. The answer to the threat of a changing climate poses to our vineyards may lay in these long-forgotten grape varieties.

Photos Courtesy: Steve Casscles

Review: Carnivor Zinfandel 2019

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In my latest look at widely distributed wines that are moderately priced and worth your consideration, I review Carnivor Zinfandel 2019. Carnivor Wines is a Gallo Winery Inc. label produced in Modesto, California. Carnivor uses Zinfandel grapes sourced from warm-weather vineyards in Lodi, California. Their winemakers give these grapes a brief cold soak to coax extra color and tannins from them. The must is fermented at a warm 88-90F. The wine is aged in French and American oak to soften its tannins and balance its structure. Finally, the Zinfandel is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, adding color and structure plus some Merlot to impart a softened character. 

Carnivor Zinfandel 2019 is balanced on a medium body and a smooth finish. Nothing about this wine is overwhelming whether it be the aromas of toasted oak, the flavor of blackberries, tamed acidity, or a controlled finish. Everything about this wine is designed to be bold but not offend the mainstream red wine drinker. Priced at well below $13 a bottle this wine deserves serious attention when you are scanning the shelves for a dependable “everyday” wine that will please a wide range of palates. Carnivor Zinfandel 2019 pairs well with all red meat, after all, Carnivor’s tagline, is “Meat was made for Carnivor” but red meat isn’t the only thing it pairs well with. It is also a good wine to drink with your pizza or any dish that features a hearty dark red tomato sauce. The winemakers at Carnivor must be commended for producing a wine of this quality for a bargain price and doing it on such a large scale.

Review: Josh Cellars Pinot Noir “Central Coast” 2020

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If you ever find yourself scanning the shelves of a grocery store or wine mega store searching for a bottle of Pinot Noir that you will enjoy drinking but only costs around $15, more or less, then Josh Cellars Pinot Noir “Central Coast” 2020 just might be the one you’re looking for. 

Josh Pinot Noir is not a small production, celebrity hyped cult wine made by a famous trending winemaker with a big price tag. This California Pinot Noir is a processed wine (A.K.A. mass-produced wine) that is in wide distribution and is targeted to meet the preferences of the largest segment of the U.S. wine market. 

Josh Cellars Pinot Noir “ Central Coast” 2020 is a light ruby color (note the color fades near the rim) with faint aromas of red cherries and raspberries. Flavors of black cherry and light vanilla give way to spice in a light body. The acidity is middle of the road and the finish is acceptable. Pair it with pasta in a light red sauce, as well as, roasted chicken or pork.