Winter 2026: “One Battle After Another”

The Winter of 2026 was on for the record books, not in a good way. The weather from January through late May was dominated by extreme swings in both temperature and precipitation that culminated with a freeze on April 21st when the temperatures fell into the low 20’s. 

I was curious as to what extent these environmental factors had on the vineyards here in the northeastern United States. The only way I could collect honest and insightful information on this subject was to go directly to the people who had experienced it personally. The following are the firsthand accounts of vintners telling what they and their vineyards endured during the destructive Winter of 2026. The guests graciously provided supporting material that appears at the end of this article. Thank you. 

Dr. Chuck Zaleski is the owner/winemaker of Fero Vineyards & Winery in Lewisburg, Pennsylvania. Chuck makes wine from grapes grown on his 13.5-acre vineyard that features Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris, Lemberger, Pinot Noir, and a favorite of mine, Saperavi. Like for many in the Northeast, this past winter was challenging. Here’s what Chuck told me. 

“Like most vineyards in the Mid-Atlantic region, we were impacted by the April 21, 2026, freeze. We have a NEWA weather station in the vineyard, and I attached a page recording the temperatures. The attempted mitigation effort of burning the prior year’s pruning in the vineyard was no match for the extreme cold. On that infamous day, we were still early in the growth season, at bud swell stage, with the exception of some of the smaller shoots and the row edges that had 1″ of green tissue. Our vineyard sustained significant damage to greater than 90% of the buds. Since the freeze, there has been some growth on vines, but only 30% of the normal shoot density. I expect to see some crop this year, but likely a fraction of normal yields. I also expect some vine loss, but it is too early to know the extent. This 2010 vineyard has weathered numerous frost events and deep winter cold to negative 12 degrees in its history, but this was the worst damage I’ve seen.  

The 2026 Freeze was a major disruptor to vineyards and orchards in the surrounding states. Economic losses will be significant. We will have to look at purchasing grapes for some of this year’s wine production. We will also need to replace damaged vines in the vineyard. The crop that we get will require more extensive hands-on management to get high-quality fruit. As bad as this weather event was, it came on the heels of one of the best vintages ever, 2025. Wines made from those grapes will be a real treat for wine lovers and are available now. We bottled our whites and rose wines this spring and will get the reds done next year. This summer is a great time to get out and support your local vineyards and wineries.”

J. Stephen Casscles is the leading authority on 19th-century Heritage grape varieties of the Hudson Valley and New England. He is a well-regarded author and writer, as well as a viticulturist, vintner, and winemaker. Steve resides in the Hudson Valley of New York, where he maintains a vineyard of rare grape varieties. Steve also provided me with a link to an article he recently published entitled “A Late Spring Freeze Slams Hudson Valley Fruit Farms” for us to gain a better understanding of the extent of the damage to the local economy. https://www.ediblehudsonvalley.com/a-late-frost-slams-hudson-valley-fruit-farms/

“My farm is near the banks of the Hudson River in Athens, NY. I grow 85 Cool Climate and Heritage grape varieties. What I have done for the past few weeks is record the bud break of my varieties and this year, the percentage of freeze damage. I think you will find that some buds/shoots were OK, and some got singed, but came out of this, some were damaged pretty well, and some were killed. I also noticed that some varieties have secondary buds, so there will still be a crop, but a reduced one. Observations: Some Heritage varieties, like the Hudson Valley Heritage varieties and Cape Ann Varieties, did OK because they tend to bud out late, so they did not have the length of green growth that got frozen out. Of the late-budding varieties that did OK were Jefferson, Empire State, Eumelan (Hudson Valley hybrids), and Agawam, Salem, and Lindley for the Cape Ann Rogers hybrids. I noticed that a Hudson Valley hybrid Bacchus, which is a Riparia variety, while it budded out early, still did OK. It must have some kind of antifreeze in it, as some spring plants do, like Glory of the Snow or tulips. So, my Bacchus (JH Ricketts hybrid) was good. My Seyval Blanc, Vidal, and Vignoles did OK, and they have a secondary crop. The Foch also got hit a bit and buds out early, but survived OK. It is in a higher place in the vineyard, so that helped.  My chance seedlings Palmer and Lynwood, both bud out late, so they managed well. Freeze damage was worse at the bottom of the vineyard hill than at the top.  Compared to other vineyards, we did OK, mostly because I do not grow vinifera.”

Jay Bell is the owner/winemaker of Bella Terra Vineyards in Hunker, Pennsylvania. He also grows grapes for his operation in his vineyards located in Westmoreland and Bedford counties. Jay gave me this comprehensive review of the damage his vines sustained. 

“We were also hit hard in both vineyard locations. Bedford County and Westmoreland County. Some vines are starting to rebound with suckers coming up from the vine base where we had them hilled up. (We cover up the graft unions with dirt in the winter to protect part of the trunk from freezing.) On the 21 of April, we made fire on just 3 acres of chardonel vines, and that really helped. We wish we had the resources to do more fires or other frost/freeze mitigation. Those 3 acres, along with our small block at the winery in Hunker, did well. The remaining 17 acres will have little to no crop this year. The varieties that took the hardest hit and will have to be a total replant or retrain from vine base were Gruner Veltliner (3 acres), Pinot Noir (2.5 acres), Malbec (.5 Acre) Merlot (1.5acre) Chardonnay (1 acre). Petite Verdot, on the other hand, was not quite out, so it did fairly well with only about 20% bud loss.”

Alfredo “Alfie” Alcántara is co-owner of dear native grapes Winery & Vineyard in the picturesque Catskill Mountains town of Walton, New York.  Alfie and dear native grapes are focused on propagating and producing wine from Heritage and seldom-used native grape varieties. Here’s what Alfie shared with me about the Winter and Spring of 2026 in the western Catskills. 

“We faced a severe winter in the western Catskills, with lows hitting-15°F and wind chills plunging to -30°F. Thankfully, steady snow cover insulated our vines and root systems. Local growers note that these extreme freezes can actually suppress overwintering bark diseases, and we’ve already seen a significant drop in vole damage this year. Our primary concern shifted to the late-spring frosts of April and May. A major freeze on April 21st devastated large portions of the Northeast, but because our bud break naturally occurs a few weeks later than in the Hudson Valley or Finger Lakes, our tight buds escaped the worst of it. After tracking the vineyard closely through a few additional early-May frosts, we are optimistic. We see some minor frost damage, but 70–80% of our vines look healthy and are actively pushing out shoots. Still, these close calls keep us thinking about the future, reinforcing our interest in late-budding varieties like Petite Pearl that can naturally escape these unpredictable spring frost events.”

At the end of the day, growing grapes for winemaking is no different than any other agricultural venture. It is a risky business where most of the factors determining your success or failure are beyond your control. I learned this at a very young age while growing up across the road from my grandparents’ western Pennsylvania farm, which my uncle, aunt, and cousins tirelessly worked. I greatly admire all who labor in this ancient profession where success is measured in small victories, and acknowledgement is very rarely received. 

Grüner Veltliner Betta Terra Vineyard
Fires in Chardonel vineyard, Bella Terra, Hunker, PA
First Snow Winter 2026, dear native grapes Walton, New York
Weather Information from Fero Vineyard, Lewisburg, Pennsylvania
dear native grapes vineyard, Walton, New York

Wine Review: Greendance Principe Estate Petite Pearl 2021

Petite Pearl is a hybrid red wine grape that was developed in Minnesota by viticulturist Tom Plocher. It is extremely cold-hardy and capable of producing dark-colored wine displaying fruit flavors, good acidity, and tannin structure. To my knowledge, Greendance the Winery at Sand Hill, Mount Pleasant, Pennsylvania, is the only winery in Western Pennsylvania growing and making wine from Petite Pearl grapes. 

Greendance Principe Estate Petite Pearl 2021 is crafted from estate-grown Petite Pearl grapes, carefully barrel-fermented in French Oak and aged to yield a wine featuring flavors of plum and dark berries, with moderate tannins. It pairs well with grilled or roasted red meats. This wine has a tartness that reminds me of an Austrian Zweigelt. 

http://greendancewinery.com

Interview: Dr. Richard Lynn, Greendance The Winery at Sand Hill

I recently had the good fortune to hear from Dr. Richard Lynn, owner of Greendance The Winery at Sand Hill in Mount Pleasant, Pennsylvania. I appreciate him taking the time from his busy schedule, especially now during the high winter inpatient census and resulting elevated workload, to update me on the status of his vineyard. Rick is also the vintner who oversees the large and diverse plantings surrounding his winery. On a very cold day, a few years ago, he took me out to a block of his Marquette vines that I believe are the largest planting of this cold-hardy hybrid grape variety in Pennsylvania. I was working on an article and had asked him to show me how he pruned his dormant grape vines so they would produce high-quality fruit. We discussed the attributes of the Saperavi grape and how it might be a good complement to the other varieties he was growing. It has been a minute since that frigid winter day in his vineyard, and since then, Rick has added Saperavi to his lineup of grapes along with some other notable additions. With those memories fresh in my mind and a curiosity as to where things stand now, I asked him to bring me up to date on his vines and the near term outlook for his vineyard. 

wpawinepirate: 

How is your Saperavi program progressing, and what other varieties are you planting?

Dr. Rick Lynn:

“My Saperavi story is probably not the one you want to hear, but it’s not over yet.  After our initial trial planting of Saperavi, we had a small harvest 2 years ago and just did a simple fermentation and spent little time tuning it.  It was pretty good, and I think I still have a few bottles left. In the meantime, we have (?wisely) expanded our vineyard areas to be able to produce most of our wine from what we grow here. That required planting blocks of Riesling, Kerner, Sauv Blanc, Cab Franc, and Chardonnay.  This was our 2nd harvest of Riesling in 2025. We had small harvests of Chardonnay from the trial planting and just planted a larger 2A block in 2025.  We had temperatures in the vineyard of -13ºF last winter and did not expect many vinifera buds or vines to survive the insult.  Surprisingly, we had a reasonable harvest of Riesling and Vidal Blanc, and dribbles of Chardonnay, Kerner, and Sauv Blanc, back to the Saperavi. We planted a large block in 2023 and 2024, and the cold event last winter killed at least 30-40% of the vines. I was very surprised that the Saperavi was so selectively affected by the cold event. Possibly, they moved more slowly into the maximal stages of dormancy than the other vinifera.  Most of them were on 3309 roots, and some on Riparia, and I don’t have the data to determine if that was a discriminating variable. Our larger block was half from Wiemer and half from Eric Amberg. My Saperavi replants for 2026 have now been ordered from Eric Amberg and will be on 3309.”

Thank you, Rick, for sharing your candid insights with us. We all look forward to visiting Greendance Winery and Sand Hill Berries. 

greendancewinery.com  sandhillberries.com

Photo Credit: Greendance The Winery At Sand Hill

A Winelovers Guide to Western Pennsylvania Wineries Part 3

This is Part 3 and the final installment in my series featuring Western Pennsylvania wineries. All the wineries from previous posts will be included for reference or if you are new to my blog. I invite everyone to subscribe for free to this blog using the subscription box at the top of this page. You will receive an email when I publish a new article. Thanks. 

Pennsylvania is home to more than four hundred wineries and over fourteen thousand acres of vineyards. Some of the very best are located on the western side of the state. The wineries are as unique as the wines they make. The following suggestions are just a starting point. The real fun comes in exploring all this region has to see and do.

Driving twenty-three miles south of Pittsburgh will bring you to Silver Mark Cellars. It is an urban-style winery in the charming town of Canonsburg. They offer an award-winning wine list complemented with food, beer, and liquor. All of their wines are handcrafted in-house from start to finish. http://silvermarkcellars.com 724-416-7447

Nestled in the picturesque rolling hills of Westmoreland County near Acme we find Stone Villa Wine Cellars. Guests can relax on the manicured lawn surrounding a tranquil lake while listening to live music. Stone Villa Wine Cellars offers a portfolio of wines ranging from classic to unique blends that are sure to satisfy everyone’s tastes. As always, the tasting bar is free. http://stonevilla.com 724-423-5604

Situated on the remaining three acres of the old “Martz Family Farm” in Delmont stands a barn originally built in the 1860s that now serves as the home of Red Barn Winery. Red Barn Winery makes sweet and dry wines from grapes sourced from several regions. It also offers Pennsylvania beers and spirits, food, entertainment, and special events. http://redbarnwinerypa.com 724-461-4331

Thistlewaite Vineyards only use the French hybrid grapes they grow in their five-acre vineyard to produce their wines. They age their wine in Pennsylvania White Oak barrels or stainless steel tanks. When you are in Jefferson stop by the tasting room for a complimentary wine tasting. http://thistlegrape.com 724-883-3372

Edgewood Winery and Event Center in Spring Church is a one-stop shop for all your entertainment needs. They sell their wines by bottle or glass, have a food menu sure to please everyone, an event calendar full of live music, and plenty of options for your special event. http://edgewoodwinery.com 724-478-4373

I hope you enjoyed reading these articles as much as I enjoyed researching and writing them. Please use these suggestions to start your journey to discover the constantly evolving community of wineries in Western Pennsylvania. Cheers!

Photo Credit: L to R Silver Mark Cellars, Red Barn Winery, Thistlewaite Vineyards

We’re off to see “The Castle”. The Vinoski Winery is located in the magnificent Rostraver mansion Jay and Sherry Lustig built. Jay was the long-time manager of The Rolling Stones, financial advisor to Prince Rupert Loewenstein, and later became a minority owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates. Walt and Roxanne Vinoski bought the sprawling property in 2017 and turned it into the breathtaking home of the Vinoski Winery. They offer two wine tasting options: $10 for 5 sweet wines or a Premium tasting for $20 that includes their dry California wines. Check their website for the event calendar which is always full of concerts and events. http://vinoskiwinery.com 724-872-3333

Let’s not forget about our friends north of Pittsburgh. The next stop is the picturesque Tuscan-inspired winery and restaurant of Narcisi Winery. A short ten-mile drive north of the city will bring you to Narcisi Winery in Gibsonia. Set on an enchanting property, this Italian-themed winery and restaurant will satisfy anyone’s longing to spend a “Bella Giornata” (Beautiful Day) in Tuscany.  http://narcisiwinery.com  724-444-4744

Any time of year is a good time to take a leisurely drive to Glades Pike Winery near Somerset on Pa State Rte 31. It will take you past several notable attractions for the outdoor enthusiast.  The Seven Springs and Hidden Valley ski resorts plus Laurel Hill and Kooser state parks are easily accessible from Glades Pike Winery. Glade Pike Winery makes a diverse selection of wines that will intrigue any wine aficionado. Malbec, Baco Noir, and Tempranillo are some of the unusual wines offered that are not readily found at other local wineries. http://gladespikewinery.com 814-445-3753 

The Original Pittsburgh Winery is an urban winery and as such it can make its wines year-round because they source their grapes from vineyards in California and Chile. Swing by the winery on Liberty Avenue in Pittsburgh’s Strip District to taste their wines, grab a bite to eat, and enjoy live music in an intimate setting. http://pittsburghwinery.com  412-566-1000

Guests at Ripepi Winery & Vineyard in Monongahela can enjoy a tranquil ten-acre vineyard from the Tuscan-inspired winery as you savor a glass of their estate-made wine.  Owner/winemaker Rich Ripepi founded his landmark winery in 1987. Today it is a family legacy he shares with his winemaker/sommelier daughter Janelle Ripepi D’Eramo and winemaker son Dr. Daniel Ripepi. They host a fun “Happy Hour” event every second Friday of the month. http://ripepiwine.com 724-292-8351

Traveling to Mount Pleasant you will find Greendance The Winery at Sand Hill. Greendance Winery is part of the Sand Hill Berries, a small family-owned business that specializes in different types of berries, especially raspberries. You might recognize them from their raspberry specialty desserts booth at festivals. The winery and its grounds are set in the idyllic Laurel Highlands countryside. Stop by anytime to enjoy the rural ambiance but if you visit on a summer weekend you will be treated to live music as you unwind with a bottle of their wine. http://greendancewinery.com 724-547-6500

Up we go into the Allegheny Mountains to Chalk Hill where we arrive at Christian K. Klay Winery. A visit to Christian K. Klay Winery and its adjacent Ridge Runner Distillery is sure to include wine, spirits, and beautiful vistas. http://christianklaywinery.com 724-439-3424

Bella Terra Vineyards in Hunker is easily accessible and has ample parking plus plenty of inside and outside areas making it a favorite meeting place for friends and family. Check their website for the many special events on the calendar. http://bellaterravineyards.com 724-635-3658

If you are looking for a twist on your usual night out then the City Winery is the place for you. Unlike the other wineries mentioned, City Winery is on Smallman St in Pittsburgh’s “Strip District”. It is a winery, restaurant, and event center that promotes live music, comedy shows, and wine events. http://citywinery.com/pittsburgh 412-246-1000

Wooden Door Winery is located in a painstakingly renovated 1896 church in Vandergrift. Explore their diverse lineup of wines while sampling a menu of appetizers and lighter fare in the spacious tasting room or the al fresco seating during the warmer weather. http://woodendoorwinery.com 724-889-7244

A Winelovers Guide to Western Pennsylvania Wineries Part 2

This is Part 2 in my series featuring Western Pennsylvania wineries. All the wineries from previous posts will be included for reference at the end of each post. If you are new to my blog, Welcome and I invite you and everyone to subscribe to this blog for free using the subscription box at the top of this page. You will receive an email when I publish a new article. Thanks. 

Pennsylvania is home to over four hundred wineries and over fourteen thousand acres of vineyards. Some of the very best are located on the western side of the state. The wineries are as unique as the wines they make. The following suggestions are just a starting point. The real fun comes in exploring all this region has to see and do. 

We’re off to see “The Castle”. The Vinoski Winery is located in the magnificent Rostraver mansion built by Jay and Sherry Lustig. Jay was the long-time manager of The Rolling Stones, financial advisor to Prince Rupert Loewenstein, and later became a minority owner of the Pittsburgh Pirates. Walt and Roxanne Vinoski bought the sprawling property in 2017 and turned it into the breathtaking home of the Vinoski Winery. They offer two wine tasting options: $10 for 5 sweet wines or a Premium tasting for $20 that includes their dry California wines. Check their website for the event calendar which is always full of concerts and events. http://vinoskiwinery.com 724-872-3333

Let’s not forget about our friends north of Pittsburgh. The next stop is the picturesque Tuscan-inspired winery and restaurant of Narcisi Winery. A short ten-mile drive north of the city will bring you to Narcisi Winery in Gibsonia. Set on an enchanting property, this Italian-themed winery and restaurant will satisfy anyone’s longing to spend a “Bella Giornata” (Beautiful Day) in Tuscany.  http://narcisiwinery.com  724-444-4744

Any time of year is a good time to take a leisurely drive to Glades Pike Winery near Somerset on Pa State Rte 31. It will take you past several notable attractions for the outdoor enthusiast.  The Seven Springs and Hidden Valley ski resorts plus Laurel Hill and Kooser state parks are easily accessible from Glades Pike Winery. Glade Pike Winery makes a diverse selection of wines that will intrigue any wine aficionado. Malbec, Baco Noir, and Tempranillo are some of the unusual wines offered that are not readily found at other local wineries. http://gladespikewinery.com 814-445-3753 

The Original Pittsburgh Winery is an urban winery and as such it can make its wines year-round because they source their grapes from vineyards in California and Chile. Swing by the winery on Liberty Avenue in Pittsburgh’s Strip District to taste their wines, grab a bite to eat, and enjoy live music in an intimate setting. http://pittsburghwinery.com  412-566-1000

Wooden Door Winery is located in a painstakingly renovated 1896 church in Vandergrift. Explore their diverse lineup of wines while sampling a menu of appetizers and lighter fare in the spacious tasting room or the al fresco seating during the warmer weather. http://woodendoorwinery.com 724-889-7244

Photo Credit: Vinoski Winery, Narcici Winery, and Wooden Door Winery 

Scroll down after photos for wineries listed in Part 1

Guests at Ripepi Winery & Vineyard in Monongahela can enjoy a tranquil ten-acre vineyard from the Tuscan-inspired winery as you savor a glass of their estate-made wine.  Owner/winemaker Rich Ripepi founded his landmark winery in 1987. Today, it is a family legacy he shares with his winemaker/sommelier daughter Janelle Ripepi D’Eramo, and winemaker son Dr. Daniel Ripepi. They host a fun “Happy Hour” event every second Friday of the month. http://ripepiwine.com 724-292-8351

Traveling to Mount Pleasant you will find Greendance The Winery at Sand Hill. Greendance Winery is part of Sand Hill Berries, a small family-owned business specializing in different types of berries, especially raspberries. You might recognize them from their raspberry specialty desserts booth at festivals. The winery and its grounds are set in the idyllic Laurel Highlands countryside. Stop by anytime to enjoy the rural ambiance but if you visit on a summer weekend you will be treated to live music as you unwind with a bottle of their wine. http://greendancewinery.com 724-547-6500

Into the Allegheny Mountains, we go to Chalk Hill where we arrive at Christian K. Klay Winery. A visit to Christian K. Klay Winery and its adjacent Ridge Runner Distillery is guaranteed to include wine, spirits, and beautiful vistas. http://christianklaywinery.com 724-439-3424

Bella Terra Vineyards in Hunker is easily accessible and has ample parking plus plenty of inside and outside areas making it a favorite meeting place for friends and family. Check their website for the many special events on the calendar. http://bellaterravineyards.com 724-635-3658

If you are looking for a twist on your usual night out then the City Winery is the place for you. Unlike the other wineries mentioned, City Winery is on Smallman St in the “Strip District” of Pittsburgh. It is a winery, restaurant, and event center that promotes live music, comedy shows, and wine events. http://citywinery.com/pittsburgh 412-246-1000

These are only a few suggestions to pique your interest. I will add new wineries for you to try in future posts. I urge you to do a little research on the Internet and I’m sure you will be surprised by the number of interesting options that you will discover in your area. Have fun and always drink responsibly. Cheers!

A Winelovers Guide to Western Pennsvlvania Wineries Part 1

If you have ever found yourself staring out the window and daydreaming about relaxing at a little bistro table sipping a glass of wine while overlooking a serene vineyard, you are not alone. Wine lovers in Western Pennsylvania need not lament the false notion that they must pack their bags and travel hundreds or thousands of miles to live that dream. 

Pennsylvania is home to more than four hundred wineries and over fourteen thousand acres of vineyards. Some of the very best are located on the western side of the state. The wineries are as unique as the wines they make. The following suggestions are just a starting point. The real fun comes in exploring all this region has to see and do. 

Guests at Ripepi Winery & Vineyard in Monongahela can enjoy the tranquil ten-acre vineyard from a Tuscan-inspired winery as they savor a glass of their estate-made wine.  Owner/winemaker Rich Ripepi founded his landmark winery in 1987. Today, it is a family legacy he shares with his winemaker/sommelier daughter Janelle Ripepi D’Eramo, and winemaker son Dr. Daniel Ripepi. They host a fun “Happy Hour” event every second Friday of the month. http://ripepiwine.com 724-292-8351

Traveling to Mount Pleasant you will find Greendance The Winery at Sand Hill. Greendance Winery is part of Sand Hill Berries, a small family-owned farm that specializes in berries, especially raspberries. You might recognize them from their raspberry specialty desserts booth at festivals. The winery and its grounds are set in the idyllic Laurel Highlands countryside. Stop by anytime to enjoy the rural ambiance but if you visit on a summer weekend you will be treated to live music as you unwind with a bottle of their wine. http://greendancewinery.com 724-547-6500

Up we go into the Allegheny Mountains to Chalk Hill where we arrive at Christian K. Klay Winery. A visit to Christian K. Klay Winery and its adjacent Ridge Runner Distillery will surely include wine, spirits, and beautiful vistas. http://christianklaywinery.com 724-439-3424

Bella Terra Vineyards in Hunker is easily accessible and has ample parking plus plenty of inside and outside areas making it a favorite meeting place for friends and family. Check their website for the many special events on the calendar. http://bellaterravineyards.com 724-635-3658

If you are looking for a twist on your usual night out then the City Winery is the place for you. Unlike the other wineries mentioned, City Winery is on Smallman St in Pittsburgh’s “Strip District”. It is a winery, restaurant, and event center that promotes live music, comedy shows, and wine events. http://citywinery.com/pittsburgh 412-246-1000

These are only a few suggestions to pique your interest. I will add new wineries for you to try in future posts. I urge you to do a little research on the Internet, and I’m sure you will be surprised by the number of interesting options you will discover in your area. Have fun, and always drink responsibly. Cheers!

Photo Credit: (Left To Right) Ripepi Winery & Vineyard, Bella Terra Vineyards, Greendance Winery

Till We Meet Again

Isabella Grapes Photo Courtesy: Double-A Vineyards

In my last post, I explored the idea that you didn’t need to try wine from far away places to experience something new. There are plenty of grape varieties that were commonly found on kitchen tables and being made into everyday wines have fallen out of favor for a myriad of reasons can provide an interesting distraction from the predictable narrative of today’s offerings.

Isabella is a Vitis labrusca grape that was once prized for it’s ability to produce fruit that was marketable as table grapes, juice, and grapes for winemaking. Isabella is a large round grape with dark purple skin and a green-yellow flesh that is easily separated from its skin.

In many European countries, Isabella is still banned from being grown and it is illegal to make wine from its grapes. The importation of Isabella vines from North America was widely blamed for the phylloxera plague that ravaged vineyards across Europe in the mid-1800s. Despite it being outlawed in many European countries Isabella can still be found in vineyards and being made into various styles of wine, especially in Italy where the sweet dessert wine Fragolino is very popular. Isabella’s reputation as a desperado has necessitated it being known by more than fifty aliases. Those names range from Alexander and Fragola to Moschostaphylo and Kerkyraios but no matter what name you have known Isabella by it always displays that trademark “foxy” flavor that Vitis labrusca grapes are known for.

My Article in Michigan Uncorked

I would like to invite you to view my article about Saperavi in the Spring 2020 issue of Michigan Uncorked. An online version of the magazine can be accessed by going to http://michiganuncorked.com and clicking on the Spring issue link on the home page to read the free flip-page edition (I’m on page 6 + 7) or use this link to go directly to the front cover of the magazine http://online.fliphtml5.com/hllky/gjob/#=6This is an edited version of an article that appears in the Spring 2020 issue of the American Wine Society Wine Journal.

Thanks to Michigan Uncorked’s Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink for the opportunity to share my story with the readers of Michigan Uncorked. I hope you enjoy the article and it provides you a bit of relief from the uncertainty and stressful times we are experiencing. Be prudent and stay safe! 

 

 

 

First Cut is the Deepest

When I arrived at the farm on Deer Field Road in Mount Pleasant, PA

Beautiful & productive vines like these are the result of careful pruning. Photo courtesy of Greendance Winery

that Sand Hill Berries and Greendance – The Winery at Sand Hill both call home, the windchill was hovering near O° and a thin layer of snow covered the ground. Rick Lynn had invited me to his vineyard to show me how he uses the VPS (Vertical Shoot Pruning) technique to prune his Marquette vines. Vintners prune their grape vines every year to make them more productive and to control how the vine develops during the growing season. The trimming is done during the winter when the vines are dormant. Pruning is a cold and labor intensive job that is essential to the success of the current year’s crop but is also necessary for the training and development of the vines for the future. Rick demonstrated how last year’s growth is removed and two of the best canes are left to be bent and attached to the trellis wire. The vine shoots that grow from the cane that was tied to the lower trellis wire are then trained to grow upward by having them attach themselves to catch wires above the cordon wire (lowest wire). The vines proceed to grow upward in a vertical curtain with the fruiting zone below the canopy. On the day we were pruning a lot of old growth had to be removed because Marquette vines are known for their vigorous growth. Greendance uses the VSP method on all of their vines except the American varieties (Vitis labrusca).

VSP pruning is the most common pruning method for cool-climate wine grapes but it is by no means the only one. Rick and I discussed some new ideas for managing vines in the field. I found the practice of planting vines very close together, about two feet apart, then pruning every vine back to one cane and tying down that cane to the right one year then doing the same the next year but tying the one cane to the left and continuing to alternate direction every year.

Another intriguing idea is “Wild Tail” pruning. Wild tail pruning leaves all the buds on the lateral cane that is tied to the cordon wire so the end buds develop first and delays the budding of the lower buds to protect them from a late frost. After all danger of frost has pasted you walk the vineyard and clip off all the “Wild Tails” back to the number of buds you want on each lateral. I am extremely curious to see if these methods would be successful in a cool-climate vineyard.

The goal of my visit was two-fold and with the first part completed we now turn our attention to the second part, Greendance’s planting of Petite Pearl. If you haven’t heard of the Petite Pearl wine grape you’re not alone. This hybrid grape from renowned Minnesota grape breeder Tom Plocher is just beginning to take root in Minnesota, Wisconsin and across the Midwest where it’s cold tolerance is greatly appreciated. I will be posting about my barrel tasting of Greendance Petite Pearl soon.

 

Shocking

     You may have heard the term “Bottle Shock” and didn’t know what it is or what causes it. Bottle shock refers to a condition when wine exhibits symptoms from getting too much air mixed into it in a very short time.  When this happens the wine will lack character in all respects.

This condition normally affects wine during the bottling process. Bottling is the most common cause of bottle shock because wine can easily absorb more oxygen than normal while being moved to a bottle and become saturated. Rough handling of bottled wine can also result in bottle shock because shaking the bottle can also mix air into the wine.

The good news is that bottle shock is temporary. After a few weeks of rest the ill effects will subside leaving the wine to not only recover but develop into a more complete

Barrel Room: Savage Wines Cape Town, South Africa

 wine than it was before the extra oxygen was introduced. The reason for this fortuitous transformation is that wine needs oxygen to age but it needs it added very slowly. Natural corks are perfectly suited to do this because air can penetrate them in such minuscule amounts that the oxygen can be gradually absorbed by the wine and not be overwhelmed by it causing the aging process to get out of balance.

     If you are patient with a bottle you think is suffering from bottle shock you will be rewarded for your patience with a wine that is better than it was before it got “SHOCKED”