Tag winelover

Book Release: Grapes of the Hudson Valley 2nd Edition

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I heard from Steve Casscles the other day. He told me his authoritative book about cool climate grapes of the Hudson Valley and other regions of North America has been published in a revised and updated Second Edition that includes two new chapters on rarely covered 19th-century Heritage grape varieties developed in New England. Steve gave me a peek at a couple of interesting facts he uncovered in his extensive research.

Catawba is 1/2 vinifera, and Concord comes from Catawba and is 1/4 vinifera !! There are many Catawba and Concord hybrids so what we thought was all labrusca is really 1/4 or so vinifera.

Also that the ES Rogers hybrids have been forgotten and are really good grape varieties that were used by TV Munson for his many grape breeds, and Winchell, a chance seedling from VT is the basis of all the Cornell white wine grapes.

Steve also provided me with an in-depth look at what you can expect to find in his latest publication. 

I am very pleased to announce that the newly revised second edition of Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and Canada, 2nd Edition, Revised & Updated to Include New England Grapes is NOW IN PRINT AND AVAILABLE at  http://www.flintminepress.com 

This second edition contains two new chapters on rarely-covered 19th-century Heritage grape varieties developed in New England. I grow many of these varieties, such as the E. S. Rogers hybrids, Agawam, Salem, Massasoit, and Lindley, and grapes bred by E. Bull, Captain Moore, Diane Crehore (one of the few women grape breeders in the US). These New England heritage varieties are hardy, fungus disease resistant, & productive in the field, and make quality wines in the cellar and co-ferments in the brewery.  These New England heritage grape varieties are now finding their way into co-ferment beer/wines.  Many of the Rogers’ hybrids found their way into the grape varieties bred by TV Munson.  

The book includes new revelations about the true genetic ancestry of grape varieties such as Catawba, Concord, Chambourcin, and Vignoles.  It updates the genetic history of Catawba and Concord now that it is clear that Catawba is one-half vinifera (Semillion) in its parentage and that Concord is an offspring of Catawba, which means it is one-quarter vinifera in its genetic ancestry. This is a significant revelation because there are many Concord and Catawba heritage hybrids such as Iona, Jefferson, Diamond, Diana, and Dutchess, which have now conclusively been determined to have significant European vinifera heritage. Further, it conclusively delineates the ancestry of the French-American winemaking grape varieties Chambourcin and Vignoles (thanks to Dr. Bruce Reisch for pointing out the new genetic information about Vignoles).

It evaluates over 200 cool climate grape varieties with an eye towards assisting fruit growers and winemakers across the United States, Canada, Northern Europe, and Northeast Asia to identify grape varieties that are hardy, fungus disease resistant, and productive so that they can be grown either in a sustainable manner with minimal pesticide applications, and in some cases organically.

This second edition will offer guidance to our struggling growers and wineries going forward as we jointly face our increasingly changing climate. The Cool Climate grape varieties that this book covers could help our local growers to identify and grow grape varieties that can be grown more sustainably, are productive and make quality wines, beer/wines, cider/wines, and distilled products.  

  Copies can be purchased at http://www.flintminepress.com.  

Thank you Steve for your tireless efforts to provide us with this important information. The answer to the threat of a changing climate poses to our vineyards may lay in these long-forgotten grape varieties.

Photos Courtesy: Steve Casscles

Review: Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Rosé 2021

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Next in my series featuring widely distributed wines that can be easily found in your area is one that doesn’t come to mind when you go looking for an inexpensive easy drinking wine for a relaxing evening on your deck or poolside. Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Rosé 2021 is just one bottling in a long list of drinkable offerings that this Washington state winery group produces in large volume. This Rosé is 55% Syrah, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Grenache. Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Rosé 2021 opens with notes of watermelon and strawberries followed by flavors of citrus on a light body. Priced at around $15 or less it is a good choice to pair with the lighter fare that is popular during the warmer weather. If you like to “Rosé all day” with your wine glass filled to the brim with ice then this Rosé is for you with its 12.5% ABV and crisp dry profile.

2nd Annual Saperavi Festival Trade & Media Event Finger Lakes Press Release

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I wanted to share this press release I received from the co-founder of Saperica, Erika Frey. The 2nd Annual Saperavi Festival in the Finger Lakes will be held on May 12-13, 2023. For more details see the following press release.

March 23, 2023,

2nd Annual Saperavi Festival in the Finger Lakes Press Release

Saperica, Inc., Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Chama Mama Restaurant, and the National Wine Agency of Georgia presents the 2nd annual Saperavi Festival in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

Hammondsport, New York – Saperica, Inc., is pleased to announce that the 2nd annual Saperavi Festival will take place at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in Hammondsport, New York on Saturday, May 13, 2023. The festival will bring together producers of Saperavi and Rkatsiteli wines from the Finger Lakes region of New York along with their counterparts from the country of Georgia and throughout the USA. Authentic Georgian cuisine with a modern twist will be featured from New York City restaurant, Chama Mama. Sponsorship will be provided by the National Wine Agency of Georgia.

Saperavi Festival attendees will have the opportunity to taste a wide variety of wines crafted from the Saperavi and Rkatsiteli grape varieties which are native to the country of Georgia and have been grown in the Finger Lakes region for over 60 years. The wines will be paired with Georgian food specialties like Khachapuri, Khinkali, and Chakapuli. Cooking demonstrations will be presented throughout the afternoon.

The Saperavi Festival will take place on Saturday, May 13, 2023, from 12pm to 4pm, on the grounds of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery located at 9683 Middle Rd, Hammondsport, NY 14840. More detail and tickets are available for purchase at Eventbrite via this link: http://eventbrite.com/e/2nd-annual-saperavi-festival-tickets-577274843597

The event can also be found on Eventbrite by using the search words “saperavi festival”.

Members of the trade and media are invited to participate in educational seminars and events which will occur on Friday, May 12, 2023, from 12pm to 4pm on the grounds of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery located at 9683 Middle Rd, Hammondsport, NY 14840.  For more information about attending as a member of trade or media, please send an email to saperavi@saperica.org.

The 2nd annual Saperavi Festival is organized by Saperica Inc, a 501(c)(3) non-profit corporation. Saperica’s mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties along with Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes, NY, and around the U.S., by organizing and facilitating educational seminars and exchange programs between the regions, for wine and culinary professionals and enthusiasts. Any proceeds from the festival will help to fund future Saperica programs.

For additional info, please visit www.saperica.org.

Email questions to http://saperavi@saperica.org.

We hope to see you at the festival!

Review: Carnivor Zinfandel 2019

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In my latest look at widely distributed wines that are moderately priced and worth your consideration, I review Carnivor Zinfandel 2019. Carnivor Wines is a Gallo Winery Inc. label produced in Modesto, California. Carnivor uses Zinfandel grapes sourced from warm-weather vineyards in Lodi, California. Their winemakers give these grapes a brief cold soak to coax extra color and tannins from them. The must is fermented at a warm 88-90F. The wine is aged in French and American oak to soften its tannins and balance its structure. Finally, the Zinfandel is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, adding color and structure plus some Merlot to impart a softened character. 

Carnivor Zinfandel 2019 is balanced on a medium body and a smooth finish. Nothing about this wine is overwhelming whether it be the aromas of toasted oak, the flavor of blackberries, tamed acidity, or a controlled finish. Everything about this wine is designed to be bold but not offend the mainstream red wine drinker. Priced at well below $13 a bottle this wine deserves serious attention when you are scanning the shelves for a dependable “everyday” wine that will please a wide range of palates. Carnivor Zinfandel 2019 pairs well with all red meat, after all, Carnivor’s tagline, is “Meat was made for Carnivor” but red meat isn’t the only thing it pairs well with. It is also a good wine to drink with your pizza or any dish that features a hearty dark red tomato sauce. The winemakers at Carnivor must be commended for producing a wine of this quality for a bargain price and doing it on such a large scale.

Review: Arrowhead Wine Cellars Riesling

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Arrowhead Wine Cellars is located in North East, Pennsylvania on the southern shore of Lake Erie. Nick and Kathy Mobilia are third-generation owners of Mobilia Fruit Farms. In 1998 they started making wine from their grapes that until then they had been pressing into juice for other wineries. Today, Arrowhead Wine Cellars produces 32 varieties ranging from Red, White, Blush, Sparkling, Ice, and Fruit wine.

 
Arrowhead Wine Cellars Riesling is an off-dry, light-bodied, and very lightly colored Riesling. It is an easy-drinking wine with muted flavors of apricot and melon that would pair well with spicy Thai and Chinese dishes. $15.99   arrowheadwine.com

Wine Review: Castel Sallegg Lagrein 2019

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Here’s an opportunity to experience a little taste of the Alto Adige region of Northern Italy through their native grape Lagrein. Lagrein is the oldest indigenous grape variety of the Alto Adige region and a relative of Syrah and Teroldego. Alto Adige is Italian for South Tyrol (Südtriol in German). It is Italy’s northernmost district and is also one of its smallest. The landscape is punctuated by the peaks and valleys of the Dolomites and Italian Alps. The producers in this area focus on quality over quantity. Most, if not all, of their wine, is terroir-driven. Castel Sallegg Lagrein D.O.C. 2019 is one of those wines. Made with 100% Lagrein grapes manually harvested from their humus-rich clay soil vineyards in the vicinity of Lake Caldaro.The grapes are then selected, destemmed, mashed, and, malolactic fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless tanks. It is aged in stainless steel (80%) and French oak for twelve months. It is blended for two to three months and bottle aged for an additional six months.

Castel Sallegg Lagrein 2019 has a very dark ruby color with faint floral aromas. Flavors of mixed black fruits are carried on a structured medium body with mild tannins appearing mid-palate. More than ample acidity throughout. Pairs well with any grilled or roasted red meat or pasta in a hearty red sauce.

Interview: Ulrike Platter, Director Castel Sallegg (Alto Adige, Italy)

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Castel Sallegg is a family-run firm of winegrowers located in Caldaro, Alto Adige (Italy) that is dedicated to maintaining and preserving the winemaking culture of the region. With a storied history and a tradition of commitment to excellence, the von Kuenburg family has ensured the production of quality wines from Castel Sallegg for over a century. While the winemaking team has great pride in its past they are focused on the future and the challenges that must be navigated to maintain its high standards in all phases of the operation. 

For answers about how they are addressing these problems and what we should know about Castel Sallegg, I asked its Director Ulrike Platter to share her thoughts with my readers and me.

1. The wines of Alto Adige are famous for being able to express their terroir. What methods and technologies does Castel Sallegg employ to ensure this “Sense of place” is preserved in your wines?

“Oltradige, the epitome of the wine-growing tradition in Alto Adige, lies at the foot of the Mendola Mountains in the hills of the western Adige Valley between Bolzano and Termeno. Vines have found ideal conditions in this delightful landscape for thousands of years. The winegrowing region of Alto Adige is one of the oldest in Central Europe and the entire German-speaking world.”Oltradige, the epitome of the wine-growing tradition in Alto Adige, lies at the foot of the Mendola Mountains in the hills of the western Adige Valley between Bolzano and Termeno. Vines have found ideal conditions in this delightful landscape for thousands of years. The winegrowing region of Alto Adige is one of the oldest in Central Europe and the entire German-speaking world.

The Alps form a protective barrier against cold winds from the north, while the southerly Ora wind from Lake Garda has a mild Mediterranean influence. Our wines benefit from the cool downslope winds coming off the Mendola Mountains. The vines flourish here thanks to an average of 1,800 hours of sunshine per year and average temperatures of almost 17 degrees Celsius during the vegetation period.

The family-owned vineyards are located in 3 historical vineyards in Caldaro:

✓ Preyhof / vineyard Prey: 550 m above sea level and situated in the Caldaro district of Paese di Mezzo.

✓ Leisenhof / vineyard Leisenpuiten: 500 m above sea level. Central location in the village of Caldaro.

✓ Seehof/vineyard VIGNA Bischofsleiten, vineyard Nussleiten: 230 – 280 m above sea level. San Giuseppe al Lago, Caldaro.

Due to the vineyards, which range from 230-550 m above sea level, Castel Sallegg identifies the best conditions for each grape variety and tries to make optimum use of this diversity.

Best practice: Our VIGNA Bischofsleiten Lago di Caldaro scelto classico superiore DOC: VIGNA (What is a Grand Cru for the French is a VIGNA for the Italians and for us South Tyroleans.) guarantees our customers that the grapes for this wine come 100% from this vineyard. In order to preserve these 50-year-old vines, the vines that fall out due to age, illness, etc., will be replanted with our own clones.

The goal is to produce top-quality wines in harmony with the terroir we have.”

2. With Alto Adige containing so many different microclimates and growing conditions in its vineyards, have the vineyard managers noticed any changes as a result of climate change? If they have, what can you tell us about them and how are you planning for your future vineyard management? 

“Our vineyard manager noticed the changes, especially this year, which was hot and dry. Since Castel Sallegg is more of a red wine winery (we produce 58% of red wines) and we often had difficulties in the past years, with the red grapes, such as Lagrein, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon fully ripening, so 2022 was a great year for us.

In addition, 80% of our vines are 30-50 years old, which means that the roots are growing very deep to get enough water for themselves even in a very hot season. These vines are stable.

Problems can be seen in younger plants or new plants.

For this purpose, we invested in a project for the next few years, which will digitize needs-based irrigation. This means that the humidity of the soil is measured by soil sensors and the vines in different places were partially watered by a targeted system.

Since we have some vineyards on a slope and the vines get less water at the top by draining and the vines at the foot get more water we can irrigate more targeted and water-saving.

We have also noticed increased hail in recent years. For this reason, we will place our most important vineyards under hail nets in the next 2-3 years.”

Thank you to Ulrike for sharing her time and down-to-earth expertise in the mindset and operations at Castel Sallegg.

My review of the 2019 Castel Sallegg Lagrein will be posted soon.

All images Photo Credit: Castel Sallegg

Interview: Andrea Moser, Chief Enologist Erste+Neue Alto Adige Region, Northern Italy & Review: E+N Pinot Nero 2021

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Erste+Neue is the product of the 1986 merger of two wineries that began in the early part of the twentieth century. Erste Kellerei and Neue Kellerei combined to form Erste+Neue. The two wineries moved forward as one with a commitment and determination to stay on the cutting edge of alpine winemaking. 

In 2018, Erste+Neue was awarded the prestigious international seal for sustainable viticulture by FAIR’N GREEN. The goals and standards of FAIR’N GREEN mirror the same deeply ingrained beliefs that guide the winemaking culture at Erste+Neue. Sustainability, protecting the environment, biodiversity, natural viticulture, and the protection of natural resources are the guiding principles that drive all decisions made at Erste+Neue. 

The wines of the Alto Adige Region are famous for being terroir-driven and their bias to a specific area of the region. I was curious to hear how the vineyard managers and winemakers at Erste +Neue balance the demands of preserving and integrating the “terroir” factor into their wines while balancing the needs of the local ecosystem with the standards of producing world-class grapes and wine consistently. 

Seeking answers to these questions and others, I posed them directly to a leading viticulture professional and Chief Enologist at Erste+Neue, Andrea Moser. The following is our interview published in his own words.

How does Erste+Neue approach the unique challenges that making wine in the Alto Adige present while still being able to produce the highest quality wines that display a “sense of place?

“Facing the challenges of climate change is becoming increasingly important in every wine-growing region of the globe, and in South Tyrol, too, it is no different.”

However, Alto Adige and specifically our area are at a great benefit with respect to this issue, in fact, our orographic situation is very particular. The vineyards start in fact with the red varieties at about 230 m.a.s.l. and arrive in just a few kilometers to elevations of about 700 m.a.s.l. where the white varieties find excellent ripening conditions. This large elevation range, combined with a constant south-to-north wind “the Garda Hour” and strong temperature fluctuations between day and night due to the mountains surrounding us (Mendola range), allows us to consistently obtain high qualities on both red and white grape varieties.

Ripe but fresh and elegant reds and whites with low pH, good acidity, crisp and fresh that perfectly embody the spirit of our territory and our vineyards located in the middle of the Alps.”

How has being FAIR’N GREEN certified complemented your winemaking practices and philosophy in both the vineyard and cellar?

“For us, sustainability and especially respect for the environment has always been a key point to consider during our work from vineyard to bottle.

Since we have been working with Fair&Green we have made this commitment measurable and have strived to improve our efficiency and sustainability a little more each year.

In the first year of certification, we scored 68 percent while we are now at 82 percent on the scale that verifies, measures, and evaluates our degree of environmental commitment. Today, having reached the fifth year of certification, we have made many steps forward, such as completely eliminating some synthetic molecules for the phytosanitary defense of the vines, eliminating chemical weeding by 92%, increasing the areas under green manure thus increasing biodiversity in the field, and introducing sexual confusion in the vineyard to combat certain types of harmful insects. All our wines can be considered vegan since we have not used any clarifiers of animal origin for several years now, only yeast derivatives. By now, all the facilities for the production of cold, compressed air and nitrogen are equipped with energy recovery to produce hot water. We have equipped ourselves with photovoltaic panels that can provide us with about 40 percent of the energy we use.

In terms of packaging, the biggest step has been taken by eliminating bottles that are too heavy. In fact, we have gone from 700/750-gram bottles to 500-gram bottles, reducing our CO2 footprint by a third.

The road to true all-around sustainability is still a long one, but we are very committed and determined to get there as soon as possible.”

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Martin Klammer, Sales Director of Erste+Neue for his support because without it this article would not have been possible. I would also like to thank Andrea Moser, Chief Enologist of Erste+Neue for his time and candid insights into the ideology behind the winemaking mindset at E+N. I found his comments about how the culture at E+N and the environment are intertwined extremely informative because I hold a degree in nature conservation. The following is my review of Erste+Neue Classic Pinot Nero 2021.

Pinot Nero is known internationally as Pinot Noir. Pinot Nero is an early-ripening grape with a thick skin that has the reputation for being a “Heartbreak Grape” variety because it requires a great deal of care in the vineyard thus making it difficult to produce a successful harvest consistently. 

Erste+Neue Classic Pinot Nero 2021 is a sophisticated well-made wine that can be purchased at a very fair price. This Pinot Nero is ruby red in the glass and opens with the aromas of cherry & faint raspberry that is followed by the prominent flavor of cherries on the palate while smooth tannins and lively acidity are borne on the medium body of this wine. The finish is lengthy and agreeable.

Toasting the New Year with Ruffino Prosecco

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We rang in the New Year not with a French Champagne made in the Méthode Champenoise but an Italian Prosecco. The prosecco was the affordability priced (under $15) Ruffino Prosecco. Ruffino is best known for their hugely popular Chianti but they also make a very enjoyable prosecco. 

Light yellow in the glass with more than adequate effervescent small bubbles and the flavor of fresh grapefruit. It is not overly dry and with an 11% ABV Ruffino Prosecco is a good option when planning any event from a brunch to a celebratory toast, as we did. 

CIAO! Stanley Tucci

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CNN has canceled Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy and all of its original programming. But all is not lost because I heard Stanley tell Jimmy Fallon on The Tonight Show that he was exploring the possibility of reviving the show on another network, whether it be broadcast, cable, or streaming. This was more than just a travel show that featured the traditional tourist attractions, and scenic vistas of the Italian countryside and coastline. This production had that special feeling one gets when traveling with a friend who knows all the best spots and interesting locals that really allows you to immerse yourself into the culture of each region you visit. Tagging along with Stanley Tucci I experienced the Italy that only Stanley could show me with his adventurous palate, wry smile, and that all-knowing look of his.

When I heard CNN wouldn’t be renewing a new season of Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy I got that same feeling you get when the plane lifts off the runway on your return home from a great vacation. You know that feeling of joy in the memories you made but a hint of sadness because there was more to see and do.

With that said, I am thankful to have had the opportunity to see Italy through Stanley’s eyes. If you are wondering where he went here’s a recap. Season One: Naples and the Amalfi Coast, Rome, Bologna, Tuscany, Milan, and Sicily. Season Two: Venice, Liguria, Piedmont, Puglia, Sardinia, Umbria, London, and Calabria.

Luckily for anyone who may have missed any or all of the episodes they are available through a number of media outlets that can be easily found with an internet search. If you have a cable subscription you can access all of the Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy episodes from both seasons for free by going to go.CNN.com/vod (http://go.cnn.com/vod) and find Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy, click on it, and log in using your cable provider when prompted. I have found the Microsoft Edge browser works better for this site than Mozilla does for streaming its content.

All that is left to say now is Grazie di tutto, Stanley! 

Photos Credit: CNN Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy