Tag winery

There’s a New Kid in Town

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James and Rebecca McCeney celebrate Bridges Wine Co.

James and Rebecca McCeney celebrate Bridges Wine Co.

     There’s a new kid in town and that kid is James McCeney.  James has established his Bridges Wine Co. in the Point Breeze section of Pittsburgh on the second floor of a former warehouse at 6901 Lynn Way.  McCeney married a local girl and settled in Squirrel Hill after leading the life of a wine vagabond.  James was thirteen when he started working summers at a winery which eventually lead him to Napa Valley, California where he attended the University of California, Davis studying viticulture and enology.  To take part in two harvests a year he split his time between California, New Zealand and Australia but with his wonderlust still not satisfied he managed to find time to work in Burgundy, France.  You are probably are wondering how McCeney produces his wine from the second floor of a warehouse in the East End of Pittsburgh.  Bridges wine is fermented in Sonoma, California and shipped to Erie, Pennsylvania for bottling then delivered to Pittsburgh.  James hopes to someday consolidate his operations entirely here in Pittsburgh.  Bridges Wine Co. has two initial offerings, a 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and a 2012 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel , both are available online at www.bridgeswineco.com. The 2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is dark, rich and well-balanced with a nose of raspberries, strawberries and vanilla.  The palate of spicy cherry is carried on refined tannins and a lively acidity into a long fleshy finish.  2012 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel is a deep purple wine that delivers with aromas of plum, black cherry and Asian spice that leads into flavors of ripe fruit.  The structure is one of firm tannins and focused acidity with a hint of French Oak on the finish.

     B.W.C. will soon be offering a Muscato that is now in the fermentation stage and is progressing as planned.  James wanted to let everyone know that the tasting hours at his Point Breeze tasting room will be 12 pm – 6 pm Wednesday – Saturday and free shipping will be offered for the holidays.

I am happy to welcome James McCeney and his Bridges Wine Company to the winemaking family of Western Pennsylvania and as it is with any large and boisterous family there is always room for one more at the table.

 

 

Briar Valley Vineyards & Winery Who Knew?

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French Oak barrels rest in their racks @ Briar Valley Winery

French Oak barrels rest in their racks @ Briar Valley Winery

     Western Pennsylvania has more than its share of myths and mysteries.  The B-25 that crashed into the Monongahela River near Downtown Pittsburgh but was never found or the reported U.F.O. landing site near Kecksburg are just two of the myths I have heard recounted over the years.  None is more intriguing than the one about an elusive Pennsylvania winery that produces vinifera wines in a dry European-style with grapes from their own vineyards.  I was beginning to doubt the existence of such a winery when driving through the beautiful Bedford County countryside I saw a signpost up ahead that read “Briar Valley Vineyards & Winery.”  This was no mirage it really was the only winery in Pennsylvania to make only vinifera wine from their vineyards of all vinifera grapevines.

Tod Manspeaker co-owner of Briar Valley Vineyards & Winery

Tod Manspeaker co-owner of Briar Valley Vineyards & Winery

Tod and Jean Manspeaker are the owners of Briar Valley with Tod managing the vineyards and Jean the winemaker.  To pursue their passion for winemaking Tod packed up his degree in accounting and Jean her M.B.A. and English Lit. degrees and left the 9 to 5, five day a week business world to join the “Glamorous” 5 to 9, seven day a week lifestyle of the winery.  This dedication to excellence is reflected in their mission statement ” It’s all about the wine” and it really is, even if it takes handpicking leaves to allow more sunlight to reach the grapes, rejecting any batch of grapes that doesn’t meet their high standards or only using $1000 French Oak Barrels instead of using a lower cost option the wine always comes first.  With that goal in mind they planted a second vineyard on the 100 acre farm that Tod’s father purchased in 1950 where he and his family raised quarter horses.  Tod said they corrected any mistakes made in the first vineyard by planting the second vineyard on a southeastern facing slope with grape varieties perfect for the slate soil.  He laughed and told me the best thing about raising grapes on his father’s old farm was “I have never been bucked off a grapevine!” 

The terrior of Briar Valley can be tasted in their Proprietor’s Reserve Estate White 2013.  This white is a blend of 50% Gewürztraminer, 26% Riesling and 24% Chardonnay and while it displays crisp citrus flavors what really makes this offering a star is the driving minerality that it draws from the slate-rich soils of Bedford County.  This came as no surprise to me because after talking with Tod I found out we are both big fans of the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in the Finger Lakes, long known for their world-class signature dry-style Riesling.  I usually judge a winery by their Cabernet Sauvignon but by default I have to judge Pennsylvania wineries by their Cabernet Franc because Cabernet Sauvignon grapes have proven to be difficult to ripen on the East Coast.  I sampled a 2010 Cabernet Franc from Briar Valley and found it to be one of the best Pennsylvania Cab. Franc I have tasted.  It has a full-body and supple tannins with flavors of red cherry and oak that has been fleshed out with the extra aging Jean gives her wines before release. 

     Tod could barely contain his enthusiasm for their newly released 2010 Chardonnay and soon-to-be released 2010 Merlot calling them “Spectacular.”  Leading me through the tasting of the following three wines in his tasting room at 107 E. Pitt St. Bedford, Pa. he explained the nuances of each in a way only someone with an intimate knowledge of their production could.  The following are my impressions of the wines I sampled that day. 2009 Proprietor’s Red:  The award-winning 2009 Proprietor’s Red is one of the best reds grown and made in the state of Pennsylvania.  Winemaker Jean Manspeaker has put her own spin on the quintessential Bordeaux blend of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes to produce a superbly crafted wine.  Proprietor’s Rosé 2012:  This is a truly dry Rosé made in the French Saignee method which produces the beautiful Rosé color and flavors we have come to expect from this traditional summer wine.  Lively acidity and soft tannins combine with the flavors of red fruit to yield a very enjoyable Rosé.  Chardonnay 2012:  This is a dry Chardonnay but not at all like the bone-dry Chardonnay we have become accustom to from California.  This wine has a good balance of acidity combined with a nice structure and the taste of citrus and apple.  You can taste the terrior of Briar Valleys slate-rich soil in this Chardonnay.

The Manspeakers are not content to keep what they have learned about growing vinifera grapes and making winemaking to themselves.  They have partnered with Juniata College to host the colleges’ enology students at the winery.  The couple has been impressed by how intuitively the students understand every step of the winemaking process and their eagerness to learn the intricacies of the craft.

As the public’s taste in wine matures and evolves the Pennsylvania wine industry must continue to improve their products or lose customers to others that do change.  Briar Valley Vineyards & Winery has taken a huge step in that direction with an innovative approach to the wine market.  I wish them the best of luck but I know luck has very little to do with their success.  Their success is built on a foundation of hard work, perseverance and smart planning. For more information go to http://www.briarvalleywinery.com or call 814-623-0900.

Briar Valley's tasting room in Bedford, Pa.

Briar Valley’s tasting room in Bedford, Pa.

Standing Stone Vineyards Go Vertical

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Saperavi Grapes Photo Courtesy Wikipedia

Saperavi Grapes Photo Courtesy Wikipedia

     Standing Stone Vineyards to host a vertical tasting of their popular Saperavi on Sunday November 16, 2014.  Tom & Marti Macinski become the first vintners in the nation to bottle the Saperavi grape under its newly recognized and rightful name.  The N.Y. Wine & Food Classic double gold medal-winning 2012 vintage will be part of the November 16th tasting.  This vintage is featured in the November 30th issue of Wine Spectator Magazine where it was awarded a 88 point rating.  Owner and winemaker Marti Macinski will be leading the two Saperavi vertical tasting sessions Sunday afternoon at 1:00 and again at 3:00.  This is a great opportunity for guests to learn from the leading expert on this up and coming wine grape.  Tickets are $20 and include food pairings from Dano’s. Reservations can be made by calling 607-582-6051 or by e-mail at ssny@standingstonewines.com.

Bodega Goulart Malbec Clasico 2010

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goulart_classico_mal10     It is no secret that I am a fan of Goulart Malbec simply because they consistently market a quality wine at a fair price.  Bodega Goulart Malbec Clasico 2010 doesn’t disappoint on either of those points.  The deep red color of this malbec proves to be an accurate prelude to flavors of red fruit carried in a firm body that displays a friendly structure.  The surprisingly smooth tannins are held throughout a short finish.  I.W.C. gave this offering an 88 point rating.  It would be hard to find a glass of comparable malbec for less than the $11.99 a bottle price at P.L.C.B. stores or the even lower prices that can be found online.

Standing Stone Vineyards Releases 2012 Saperavi

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Photo Courtesy: Standing Stone Winery

Photo Courtesy: Standing Stone Winery

Standing Stone Vineyards “Officially” releases 2012 Saperavi.  Standing Stone becomes the first winery in the U.S. to bottle and release the newly classified Saperavi grape under its newly recognized and rightful name.  In conjunction with the iconic Dr. Konstantin Frank Cellars, Standing Stone Winery filed a petition with the Federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau in late December 2013 to have the Saperavi grape recognized as an approved wine grape variety.  The Saperavi grape is a cold weather grape that originated in Georgia, Russia.  Owner and winemaker Marti Macinski has always had a fondness for this grape said “We’ve been growing Saperavi for 20 years and we’ve been using it in blends and bottling it under different names.  But now that Saperavi is again an officially recognized grape, we are thrilled to be able to put it on our label.  And I’ve got to tell you this 2012 vintage is unbelievable.  The vines have really grown to maturity and we have 20 years experience of working with the grape and understanding how to bring out its characteristic in the bottle”.  This grape has grown well in the Finger Lakes “Banana Belt” and is believed to be able to grow anywhere Riesling thrives.  Saperavi grapes produce a deep red wine with good structure and texture that is rich but not overly tannic.  This could be the grape that elevates the reds of the Finger Lakes to a level that would provide a nice complement to the world-class whites of this region.  

Glenora Egg Update

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Gene Pierce & Steve DiFrancesco with "The Egg" Courtesy: G.W.

Gene Pierce & Steve DiFrancesco with “The Egg” Courtesy: G.W.

     A little while ago I reblogged a post from Glenora Winery on Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes that dealt with their newest acquisition, a concrete fermentation tank A.K.A. “The Egg”.  I was curious how things were going with their venture into this rediscovered method of winemaking that has long been used in Europe but is now catching on here.  One reason that it took so long for the idea to take hold here was that the only producers of these vessels were in Europe and it was cost prohibitive to ship.  Now that there are manufacturers on this side of the pond the idea has more appeal to winemakers because of the more manageable prices making them comparable to oak.  Wine Spectator published a short article on concrete fermenters in last months edition or visit my original reblog of January, 2014 “Great Egg-spectations” if you would like to read more about them.  I would attempt to summarize what the winemakers at Glenora Winery told me but I wanted to be totally accurate on their experience so I am posting their response as follows verbatim “The project is still in progress, but we anticipate an early July release of the three Pinot Blancs.  During fermentation, the wine began to take on personalities of their own.  The micro-oxygenation that occurred using the egg and barrels helped to open up and develop flavors from both the fruit as well as the yeast interaction during fermentation. However, the concrete egg contributed no additional flavors to the wine the way the oak did.  The stainless steel is very inert, contributing little to the wine.  However, dead corners in the stainless steel tank slowed down aging and development of the fruit derived flavors.”  

     Thank You to the winemaking team at Glenora Winery for your help and I will continue to post updates about the “Egg Wine”.

Greenhouse Winery

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     My wife and I made our first visit to the Greenhouse Winery a few days ago.  As the name would suggest the tasting room and winery are located next to the impressive Hazuza greenhouse that is filled to overflowing with an amazing selection of flowers and vegetables.  I talked with Gregg Hazuza, owner and winemaker of Greenhouse Winery, about the progress of his planned expansion. Gregg explained the project has been stalled due to problems getting all the permits approved by several different agencies.  He said his contractor is ready to start construction as soon as all the permits are approved.  He is planning to add ten jobs when the project is complete and is really happy about the prospect of having more space for the very popular weekly concerts that are now being restricted by the limited parking available at the current site.  All the grapes used for winemaking at the Greenhouse Winery are sourced from Pennsylvania vineyards.  When asked Gregg confirmed what winemaker Paul Vezzetti of The Vineyard at Hershey had told me earlier this spring about the need to have an established relationship with a grower to ensure access to wine grapes this year.  Gregg said he has a good relationship with his supplier and that should guarantee that he will be able to get the grapes he needs for his winemaking operation.  His producer also told him that the shortage of grapes will likely extend for two or three years because there was damage to the vines.  Gregg will eventually complete his expansion and the grape crop will eventually recover to normal levels because in the wine business patience is a virtue and all good things come to those who are patient enough to wait. Greenhouse Winery 10828 Guffy-Rillton Rd Rillton, PA   724-446-9750  greenhousewinery.com

Winter Damage

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Much of my childhood was spent growing up on my mother’s family farm just across the road from our house. Many of my relatives live nearby in houses built on land that was carved out of the original tract of land that my Grandfather began farming in the very early 1900’s.  The number one lesson I learned about the agriculture business was that no

Winter in The Vineyard

Winter in The Vineyard

matter how well prepared and thought out your plans were you are always at the mercy of Mother Nature.  Whether it is corn, wheat or grapes you will always have to be able to cope with constant change and overwhelming problems or you will not succeed.  The vintners in Southwestern and Northwestern Pennsylvania along with their counterparts in the Finger Lakes Region of New York are dealing with the effects of one of the coldest winters in recent memory.  The real damage in Pennsylvania occurred in the Northwest , especially the area around Lake Erie, while the Southwest corner of the state received above average but manageable damage.  I have talked with several winemakers about how this winter effected their vineyards and the following is a summary of what they told me. 

Rich Ripepi of Ripepi Winery in Monongahela, Pa said that they were leaving on extra buds when they pruned to be safe but should have gotten through in “relatively” good shape.   Ray Matthews, the vineyard manager at Christian W. Klay Winery in Chalk Hill, Pa is still accessing his vines but signs are good that the damage isn’t too severe.  Ray told me of a study that he read that noted statistically a vineyard in the Northeast will be devastated on average once every ten years but he has been lucky to have been spared so far.  Tod Manspeaker of Briar Valley Vineyard & Winery in Bedford, Pa grows only vinifera vines in his vineyard.  Tod has observed that certain varieties have suffered more than others with the average bud loss in the 50% range.  To compensate for the loss Tod is leaving secondary and tertiary buds by pruning less and leaving four canes instead of two.  This makes more work this year and much more work next year to clean up but by doing this Tod is expecting a normal crop.  Paul Vezzetti from The Vineyard at Hershey in Middletown, Pa tells me that South Central Pennsylvania was on the border of the coldest weather this winter.  He attributes the many cultural practices implemented before their initial planting in 2009 for mitigating much of this years temperature issues.  By postponing pruning until after the worst winter weather had passed Paul was able to adjust his pruning plan to compensate for any winter damage found in the vineyard.  Paul also predicts that anyone that hasn’t been as fortunate as he was to experience only small losses can expect to face a substantial rise in cost when they have to buy grapes from another vineyard with whom they don’t already have an established relationship. 

Marti Macinski of Standing Stone Winery & Vineyard in Hector, NY tells me the Finger Lakes Region was hit very hard with many vineyards losing 100% of this years crop.  She is fortunate that her vineyard is on the southeastern shore of Seneca Lake and benefits from a temperature moderating effect that has led to the area being nicknamed the “Banana Belt”.  The Standing Stone Vineyard has received some damage but the damage can be offset by leaving extra buds to produce a nearly normal crop.  Marti has to wait until the growing season gets underway before she can tell if there is any vine damage. 

     Marti and all winemakers know that maintaining a vineyard can be a brutal and unforgiving undertaking but one that does come with great satisfaction and sense of accomplishment when everything goes right.  I wish all the producers my very best and want them to know that I have the utmost respect for their perseverance and passion with which they pursue their craft.  

 

 

Greenhouse Winery Expansion Planned

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Best of Show-Hybrid 2014 PA Farm Show Photo Courtesy:GWLLC

Best of Show-Hybrid 2014 PA Farm Show Photo Courtesy:GWLLC

Greenhouse Winery L.L.C. of Rillton, Pennsylvania has announced plans for a $1 million expansion project.  At the heart of the plan is the construction of a 72’x76′ building that will house a tasting room along with retail space for their wines.  The structure will also house a 30’x72′ banquet facility for hosting weddings and other gatherings.  The winemaking operations will occupy the remaining 3200 sq.ft. and will allow production to rise to 14,000 gallons this year from the current level of 11,000 gallons in 2013.  Greenhouse Winery uses 15 varieties of grapes sourced from a vineyard in North East, Pa to make the 35 wines they sell.  The plan calls for construction to start in April 2014 and be completed by August of the same year.  www.greenhousewinery.com 

Christian W. Klay Winery

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Christian W. Klay Winery Photo Courtesy: Christian W. Klay Winery

Christian W. Klay Winery Photo Courtesy: Christian W. Klay Winery

     I had the pleasure to drink several Christian W. Klay wines at a friend’s wedding reception that was held very near the Klay winery’s home in Chalk Hill,Pa.  I enjoyed their Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, both displayed good structure and a medium body that paired well with my steak dinner.  The Chardonnay I tried didn’t impress me as much as the Cab and Merlot.  When I asked my wife for her opinion on the White Zinfandel she gave me a favorable comment saying it was pleasing and easy to drink.  The Christian W. Klay winery has been a mainstay of the wine industry in Western Pennsylvania since opening in Fayette county in 1997 and has always raised the quality of their wines with every vintage.  These wines, as well as the wines of many other W.Pa. wineries, continue to improve every year and I look forward to the offerings that will come from the superb 2013 vintage.  www.cwklaywinery.com