Tag winery

Review: Chateau Niagara Cabernet Franc Appassimento 2023

wpawinepirate 1 Comment

The following two posts will be my reviews of Chateau Niagara Cabernet Franc Appassimento 2023 and Chateau Niagara Cabernet Franc Reserve 2022. Jim Baker owner, winemaker, and vigneron of Chateau Niagara Winery Newfane, New York http://chateauniagarawinery.com told me “These are some of the best wines I have made.”

Chateau Niagara Cabernet Franc Appassimento 2023

A wine made in the Appassimento style is created by using partially dehydrated grapes. It is a technique used by Italian winemakers to give Amarone di Valpolicella its signature depth and complexity. Jim applied this process to his Cabernet Franc grapes to produce his outstanding Chateau Niagara Cabernet Franc Appassimento 2023. 

Beginning with a bewitching dark ruby red color in your glass this Cab Franc quickly opens with aromas of blueberries leading into flavors of cherry, dark berries, and plum. Supple tannins and balanced acidity carry through a long lingering finish. Consider purchasing several bottles with the intent of drinking some now and leaving some to age in your cellar. 

Harvest Report: Chateau Niagara Winery

wpawinepirate Leave a comment

I checked in recently with my friend Jim Baker, owner, winemaker, and vigneron of Chateau Niagara Winery Newfane, New York. http://chateauniagarawinery.com Jim’s avant-garde approach toward winemaking and the grapes in his vineyard can only be described as fascinating. Here are his candid insights into the year that was 2024 at his award-winning Chateau Niagara Winery.

“In classic cool climate viticulture, the only constant is change. We never know what the year will bring us and it creates a kind of resiliency in the vineyard managers and winemakers from these regions. It also creates some fantastic wines with incredible diversity. This year is no different. We escaped the late spring frost which hurt our neighbors in the Lake Erie region and our hearts went out to them as we got hit last year with that late frost and we lost two-thirds of our crop. We also did not have the wildfires from Quebec this year to contend with. It was a very early bud break with a wet spring and summer. This resulted in heavy downy and powdery mildew pressure. The latter half of the growing season heading to harvest was warm and dry, absolutely perfect for high-quality wine grapes. Longer hang time and good growing season with about 2800  growing degree days, which is measured by the temperatures degrees above 50 F. (A 70-degree day would therefore accumulate 70-50 or 20 growing-degree days.)  This is a measure of the total heat accumulation for the season. Harvest levels were a little under prediction and the berries were small and compact. This results in more intense aromas in whites and deeper colors and flavors in reds. We are very excited about the potential for the vintage!

In the fall we harvested our first crop of Fetească neagrǎ. We had hoped for barrels worth of wine, but the raccoons, deer, and turkey got to it first. We did harvest what we could and will likely do a very small bottling of about four cases. The grape showed me just a peek at what it can do this year. My initial tasting indicates that it falls between a Blaufrankisch and a Saperavi, with cherry, spice, black pepper, and smoke.”

Thank you, Jim, for taking the time out of your busy schedule to share your thoughts and observations about the intricate factors that influenced your vineyard and winemaking this year. We all look forward to enjoying the fruits of your labor. 

“Old World” or “New World” Why Not Both?

wpawinepirate Leave a comment

Wine is often divided into ones made in the “Old World” versus ones made in the “New World” but what does that mean? They are segregated along geographic lines. Old World wines are categorized as being made in Europe and the Middle East. New World wines are made anywhere else e.g. Australia, the Americas, Southern Africa, Asia, etc. The Old World relies mainly on traditional wine grape varieties (Vitis vinifera), time-honored wine-making methods, and labeling that emphasizes the location where the wine was made and, prioritizes a wine’s terroir. Old World wine regions tend to have cooler climates that yield wines with restrained tannins and are not as fruitful with less sugar. The lower sugar levels contribute to their lower alcohol content (ABV). 

New World wines also use traditional grape varieties but are heavily invested in non-traditional grape varieties and readily embrace modern wine-making techniques, ideas, and technology. Its wine bottles are labeled identifying the grape variety used to make the wine. The climates of New World wine regions tend to be warmer and that variable favors the production of wine with fuller fruit flavors, rounder tannins, and higher alcohol content. Lastly, New World wines display more oak which is achieved by using newer barrels that extract greater fruit flavors and tannins. 

It doesn’t matter whether a wine is an “Old World” or “New World” offering, the only thing that matters is that you enjoy drinking it. Snap a pic of the label just in case you can’t remember what to buy the next time you are wine shopping.

Changing Chile

wpawinepirate 6 Comments

When you hear wine lovers discussing wines from Chile your first thought might be of the value-priced bottles offered by a large discount retailer that piqued your curiosity. How wouldn’t anyone be intrigued by bottles of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon selling for less than $10 and not be tempted to buy one? This type of mass-produced wine is easy to find because 90% of Chile’s wine production is still focused on that segment of the world wine market. In the last ten years, Chile has made great strides in producing higher quality wines from a growing number of small wineries offering a diverse selection of wines. These wines are made from an increasing number of newly cultivated wine grape varieties. The explosive rise in the number of small producers has generated a keen interest in Chilean boutique wineries. 

The expansion of vineyards and wineries is possible because there is a wide range of growing conditions, vineyard sites, compatible grape varieties, topography, and soil profiles just to mention a few of the factors involved. Another little-known but important variable in Chile’s success is that it has never been infected by Phylloxera, even with its close proximity to Argentina which has been.  

The country of Chile on a map appears as a long thin strip of land on the western edge of South America from 17 degrees south latitude to 56 degrees south latitude with the Andes Mountains running down its eastern side. Chile’s weather is influenced by the Pacific Ocean’s cold currents (Humboldt) the Chilean Coast Range and the Andes Mountains. As a result of all of these variables, it is no surprise the styles of wine made there are varied and evolving with every vintage. 

The wine grapes grown in Chile are dominated by five varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Carmemère with Cabernet Sauvignon being the most widely planted. Carmenère has an interesting story of how it was mistaken for Merlot for a long time, resulting in it being harvested too early and made as if it was Merlot. After DNA testing revealed its true identity Carmenère was left to ripen fully before harvesting and made using the proper methods for that grape. These changes resulted in an immense improvement in the quality of Chilean Carmenère wine. 

Discovering Chilean wines is a fascinating and personally satisfying venture. I recommend starting your exploration with Cabernet Sauvignon but don’t ignore the other varieties you will come across, especially that country’s signature grape Carmenère. Chile’s most recognizable wine region is the expansive Valle Central or “Central Valley” where many premiere appellations are located, most notably the Maipo Valley and Colchagua Valley. Here are a few suggestions to begin your winery search: Concha y Toro, Santa Rita, Viña Vik, and Viña Montes. 

Vince Anter does an excellent job explaining and showcasing the wine and wineries of Chile in an episode of his award-winning wine, food, and travel show V is for Vino http://visforvino.com You can view it and all of his shows for free on his website or YouTube. Here’s a link to his Chile episode https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfHBZM7tsIQ

Visiting Chile may not be very practical or economical but buying good wine made there is. What makes Chilean wine a sensible choice when purchasing wine is that it offers you the option to take home an enjoyable bottle at a bargain price or choose one of a higher quality for just a little more money. 

Tuscany Dreams

wpawinepirate 2 Comments

When you hear Tuscany thoughts immediately come to mind of rolling hills covered in geometrically precise rows of grape vines in vineyards bathed by the golden sunshine of an idyllic Tuscan afternoon. Travelogues and magazine articles of the mid-20th century created a mystic that cast Tuscany as the epicenter of the trendy Italian food and wine culture. Whether that was an accurate assessment either then or now is debatable but for many perception remains reality. 

In Tuscany (Toscana) one grape has always reigned supreme and that grape is Sangiovese. It is from this grape that three of this region’s most recognizable wines are made. Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti, and Chianti Classico are all made from the Sangiovese grape. While they are all made from the same grape variety they are all very different wines. It is safe to say that we have all dined in an Italian restaurant with a red and white checkboard tablecloth with a bottle of Chianti in a straw basket as a centerpiece. Those are not good examples of the quality of wine Sangiovese can produce. When the market for Chianti tanked in the 1970’s Italy changed its wine laws which is what sparked the dramatic resurgence of Chianti and Tuscany on the world stage. The wines got better, winemaking methods improved, and high-priced Super Tuscans gained global notoriety. Cabernet Sauvignon can now be considered Tuscany’s second most important grape because along with Sangiovese it is a prominent grape in the majority of Super Tuscan blends. 

Brunello di Montalcino is Tuscany’s most respected and celebrated wine. The area from which it is produced encompasses a mere 5,200 acres and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The Chianti zone covers an expansive area of Central Tuscany. This zone contains the districts or D.O.C.G. of Chianti and Chianti Classico. They each have their own D.O.C.G. and by law, you can only make wine of that classification in its designated district, they are not interchangeable. You can identify a Chianti Classico wine by the iconic black rooster symbol on its bottle’s labeling.

Tuscany is no different than any other wine region. You can find good wine, bad wine, average wine, and superior wine there. You can also choose a price point from economical to expensive. The search for your perfect wine begins with some research and understanding what you want and where to find it. 

Buona caccia e buona fortuna!

Review: E. Guigal Côte du Rhône Rouge 2020

wpawinepirate Leave a comment

This wine reminds me of a lyric from the Jimmy Buffett song “He went to Paris.” It goes “ But warm summer breezes. The French wines and cheeses. Put his ambitions at bay.” He Went To Paris (YouTube)

It is easy to imagine sitting in a bistro in the south of France savoring delicate French cheese and sipping E. Guigal Côte du Rhône Rouge 2020 while watching the world pass by. 

Even though, E. Guigal is known for making high-end offerings; they continue to produce this very well-made mass-market example of a Rhône GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre). 

This is a well-balanced wine with supple tannins and subdued but pleasant acidity. Blueberry and blackberry flavors are accented with a hint of cherry from the Grenache. It is all carried on a medium body that leads to a lush finish making this wine a great introduction to the wines of the southern Rhône Valley of France. It is a bargain at less than $20 a bottle for a wine of this quality.

Alluring Alsace

wpawinepirate 4 Comments

The Alsace wine region of France is situated along the French border east of Paris. The region’s wine production is almost entirely devoted to white wine, positioning it uniquely among wine-producing regions worldwide. The white wines in Alsace are rarely made in other parts of France. Alsace is French but has been part of Germany several times. The Vosges mountains and picturesque quaint villages make it more reminiscent of images from German folk tales than the wine provinces of southern France. It is easy to see why Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat dominate its winemaking identity. Pinot Noir is the only red grape of note there but is grown in limited quantities. Alsace differs in how it labels its wine from the rest of France by using the grape variety instead of the location where the grapes were grown.  

Don’t be misled into thinking the white wines of Alsace are sweet and mild. On the contrary, they have bold character and are almost always dry. The winemakers of this region believe in showcasing the attributes of the grape and not crafting a wine to conform to a predetermined taste profile. Because this conviction is so ingrained in their wine culture, blending is seldom, if ever, an option. 

Sparkling wine is also made in Alsace. It is all designated Crémant ď  Alsace and is made the same way as

Champagne. You might be wondering if they make Crémant ď Alsace in Alsace and use Chardonnay grapes why isn’t Chardonnay one of their signature white wines? The reason is that by law Chardonnay can only be used in Crémant ď Alsace and can not be used to make still wine. Crémant ď Alsace is a high-quality alternative to Champagne at a very affordable price. 

Alsatian Riesling is angular in structure and very dry with good minerality. German Rieslings are well balanced with bright acidity, low alcohol, and prominent fruit flavors. 

Alsace is said to rival Paris in the number of great restaurants, whether pretentious or grand. 

It is easy to have an excellent wine experience in Alsace because the quality of wine is exceedingly well-made and the pricing spread guarantees you will find bottles you will love at a price you can appreciate. 

Dancing In The Dark

wpawinepirate 3 Comments

If you ever have the opportunity to get out into the vineyard and pick wine grapes during harvest I urge you to participate. My wife and I did just that several years ago and it is an experience we will never forget. We picked on a beautiful sunny morning but in reality, most wine grapes are harvested at night to take advantage of the cooler air lowering the temperature of the grapes. Most of the well-known wine-producing regions of the world are located in areas that not only have a climate favorable to viticulture but a phenomenon known as diurnal shifts. Diurnal shifts are when there is a significant change in the ambient air temperature between the day and night. A good example of this would be if you have been outside all day wearing only shorts and a tee shirt but need to wear a sweatshirt and long pants after dark, then you have experienced a diurnal shift. 

Sunshine allows a grape to increase its sugar content until harvest but in contrast, a grape’s acidity level decreases as it nears harvest. It can be argued that when grapes are cooled nightly sugar and acid levels are kept in balance creating a more complex wine. The diurnal shift phenomenon can be the result of different factors. In Napa Valley, it is the Pacific Ocean, the Rhone Valley has the mistral winds, and Duncan Savage proudly told me that his Cape Town, South Africa vineyards are “clapped” by winds off the Atlantic Ocean. 

Now that we know how grapes arrive at their peak to be harvested the obvious question is “What are the advantages of picking them in the cool of the night?” 

The first and foremost reason winemakers pick at night is to capitalize on the lower temperatures that are advantageous to producing superior wine by preserving the quality of the grapes that will be processed immediately after being taken to the winery. Grapes that have been cooled by the night air have more stable sugar levels, firmer texture, and less oxidation. This is very important when making white, Rosé, and sparkling wine but is also desirable when making red wine. Picking at night also enhances the grape’s fruit flavors and aromatics while giving the winemaker better control of the fermentation. The grapes are cooler when they come into the winery and don’t need to be cooled down before starting the winemaking process. 

I have included these two links on YouTube that give us a glimpse of what harvesting wine grapes at night looks like. One video is of grapes being picked by hand and the other with a mechanical method.

https://youtu.be/ujn8N6iBRng?feature=shared Hand harvesting

https://youtu.be/we5XNeuvn1c?feature=shared Machine harvesting

 You can find more videos on YouTube by searching “harvesting wine grapes at night.”

Since it is late summer and harvest is upon us, now is the time to call your local vineyards and ask if they could use help picking their grapes. For a wine lover, it is an experience you will not soon forget. 

Burgundy Basics

wpawinepirate Leave a comment

With all eyes on France, as it hosts the Paris 2024 Olympics, one can’t help but think of all the great wines made in that country. France has seven main wine-producing regions: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, Provence, and the Rhone Valley. These regions produce outstanding wine and are fascinating to explore. 

We will start by looking at the Burgundy Region and its signature grapes. The Burgundy Region is located in eastern France, just southeast of Paris. When you hear someone talking about Red Burgundy wine, they refer to Pinot Noir. Red Burgundy is Pinot Noir. When you hear someone talking about White Burgundy wine, they refer to Chardonnay. White Burgundy is Chardonnay. As a rule of thumb, Burgundian wine can be ranked from Best/most expensive to the most produced/moderately priced Regional Wines that are simply labeled as Bourgogne and represent 50% of all wines made in the Burgundy Region. The rankings go from Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Villages Wines, and Regional Wines. You can find some excellent wines at a good price in the last group. 

If you are interested in learning more about French wine I suggest visiting the website of Level 3 sommelier Alison Morris Roslyn franceynotfancy.com. For those looking to delve more deeply into the wines of Burgundy, I highly recommend the website of French wine scholar with Bourgogne Masters Level Certification, Dave DeSimone https://daveswinecellar.com 

The Finger Lakes Wine Region of New York: The Inns of Aurora Getaway

wpawinepirate Leave a comment

Recently my wife and I visited one of our favorite wine destinations, The Finger Lakes Wine Region of New York. We decided to stay in and explore an area new to us. Aurora, New York is on the shore of Cayuga Lake, about halfway up the lake on the eastern side. This idyllic small town is home to the now-closed Wells College and MacKenzie-Childs studio. When I am asked to describe Aurora I tell people to imagine a real-life “Hallmark Movie Channel” town. 

We stayed at the Zabriskie House. It is one of the Inns of Aurora’s (http://innsofaurora.com) spectacularly restored mansions and is located in the center of town across Main Street from the lake. The eastern shore of Cayuga Lake has only a few wineries with the majority of the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail member wineries dotting the entire length of the western side of the lake. On this trip, I used the Waze app through my car’s Apple CarPlay to navigate flawlessly to and from the region. While there, we relied on it to travel between wineries and find gas, points of interest, and dining options. You can find casual tavern food in Aurora at the Fargo Bar & Grill on Main Street or go just across the street for more upscale fare at the award-winning 1833 Kitchen & Bar at the Aurora Inn. When around Ithaca, home to Cornell University, and looking for a quick breakfast or light lunch then you should consider the Ithaca Bakery (http://ithacabakery.com) at their 400 N. Meadow location. We also enjoyed a relaxing lunch while overlooking the vineyards and Seneca Lake from the deck of the Ginny Lee Cafe at Wagner Vineyards. 

A stop at the studios and shop of world-famous designer MacKenzie-Childs is certain to be an unforgettable experience. During our three-night stay in the Finger Lakes, we stopped at several wineries that included Montezuma, Swedish Hill, Hosmer, Knapp, Buttonwood, Sheldrake Point, Standing Stone, Wagner, and Hermann J. Wiemer. 

Since we were there during the week we didn’t need to reserve a tasting time. Still, I would strongly recommend going to the website of the wineries you intend to taste at to see their protocol and make plans by booking your tasting itinerary first. This is an excellent idea on busy weekends, holidays, and during events.  

We enjoyed our tasting at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard. They have a well-deserved reputation for being a producer of world-class Riesling but their other wines are also very good. The tastings are à la carte and are served in small carafes that are enough for two. You choose the wines you want from a menu with each sample priced accordingly. You are seated at your own table, not standing at a tasting bar. Each table is assigned a knowledgeable attendant to provide guidance if needed and answer any questions you may have. We are big fans of Riesling and concentrated on those wines but we did sample a very well-made Blaufrankisch. Outside their tasting room, Wiemer offers their own nursery-grown grape vines for sale. As a gift for our winemaker friend, Rich Ripepi, we brought back a Riesling vine (clone 110(9) rootstock 3309) that has now found a new home in his vineyard at Ripepi Winery & Vineyard Monongahela, Pennsylvania. 

We had a wonderful time on our trip. The glacial lakes are spectacularly beautiful, the rural landscape is serene, and the residents are welcoming. If you want to take a short getaway that will leave you rested and refreshed, consider visiting The Finger Lakes Wine Region of New York. Photo Credit: wpawinepirate.com, Ripepi Winery & Vineyard, and Hermann J.Wiemer Vineyard