Burgundy Basics

With all eyes on France, as it hosts the Paris 2024 Olympics, one can’t help but think of all the great wines made in that country. France has seven main wine-producing regions: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire, Provence, and the Rhone Valley. These regions produce outstanding wine and are fascinating to explore. 

We will start by looking at the Burgundy Region and its signature grapes. The Burgundy Region is located in eastern France, just southeast of Paris. When you hear someone talking about Red Burgundy wine, they refer to Pinot Noir. Red Burgundy is Pinot Noir. When you hear someone talking about White Burgundy wine, they refer to Chardonnay. White Burgundy is Chardonnay. As a rule of thumb, Burgundian wine can be ranked from Best/most expensive to the most produced/moderately priced Regional Wines that are simply labeled as Bourgogne and represent 50% of all wines made in the Burgundy Region. The rankings go from Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Villages Wines, and Regional Wines. You can find some excellent wines at a good price in the last group. 

If you are interested in learning more about French wine I suggest visiting the website of Level 3 sommelier Alison Morris Roslyn franceynotfancy.com. For those looking to delve more deeply into the wines of Burgundy, I highly recommend the website of French wine scholar with Bourgogne Masters Level Certification, Dave DeSimone https://daveswinecellar.com 

Review: Meiomi Pinot Noir 2021

The following review in my series of widely distributed wines is one with a storied lineage and a place in a controversial 2019 New York Times article. Meiomi Pinot Noir rode a wave of changing public perception and tastes as they shifted from Merlot to Pinot Noir. Started in 2006 by Joe Wagner, the son of Chuck Wagner, the proprietor of the famous Napa Valley winery Caymus Vineyards. Meiomi means “coast” in the language of the local Wappo and Yuki tribes and is a nod to the coast of California where the grapes for the wine are sourced. Meiomi was sold to Constellation Brands in 2015 and production was ramped up to meet increasing demand. 

Meiomi remains a good choice when purchasing a quality crowd-pleasing Pinot Noir for under $25. Just remember, Meiomi Pinot Noir is more of a semi-dry wine than a typically dry Pinot Noir. Colors of ruby/garnet give way to scarlet around the rim. It opens with notes of black cherry leading into jammy flavors of dark fruit and blackberry on a medium body. There are no sharp edges to this wine, from its acidity, tannins, or finish they are all rounded off by its above-average residual sugar (R.S.) content. 

The controversial New York Times article I referred to earlier was written by the world-famous wine critic Eric Asimov and in it he found Meiomi Pinot Noir the only “supermarket” wine mentioned he thought was worth drinking. As baseball legend Reggie Jackson once said “Opinions are like noses, everybody has one” and that would include you and me. When it comes to deciding whether you like a wine or not your opinion should be the only one that matters to you.

Review: Josh Cellars Pinot Noir “Central Coast” 2020

If you ever find yourself scanning the shelves of a grocery store or wine mega store searching for a bottle of Pinot Noir that you will enjoy drinking but only costs around $15, more or less, then Josh Cellars Pinot Noir “Central Coast” 2020 just might be the one you’re looking for. 

Josh Pinot Noir is not a small production, celebrity hyped cult wine made by a famous trending winemaker with a big price tag. This California Pinot Noir is a processed wine (A.K.A. mass-produced wine) that is in wide distribution and is targeted to meet the preferences of the largest segment of the U.S. wine market. 

Josh Cellars Pinot Noir “ Central Coast” 2020 is a light ruby color (note the color fades near the rim) with faint aromas of red cherries and raspberries. Flavors of black cherry and light vanilla give way to spice in a light body. The acidity is middle of the road and the finish is acceptable. Pair it with pasta in a light red sauce, as well as, roasted chicken or pork.  

Interview: Andrea Moser, Chief Enologist Erste+Neue Alto Adige Region, Northern Italy & Review: E+N Pinot Nero 2021

Erste+Neue is the product of the 1986 merger of two wineries that began in the early part of the twentieth century. Erste Kellerei and Neue Kellerei combined to form Erste+Neue. The two wineries moved forward as one with a commitment and determination to stay on the cutting edge of alpine winemaking. 

In 2018, Erste+Neue was awarded the prestigious international seal for sustainable viticulture by FAIR’N GREEN. The goals and standards of FAIR’N GREEN mirror the same deeply ingrained beliefs that guide the winemaking culture at Erste+Neue. Sustainability, protecting the environment, biodiversity, natural viticulture, and the protection of natural resources are the guiding principles that drive all decisions made at Erste+Neue. 

The wines of the Alto Adige Region are famous for being terroir-driven and their bias to a specific area of the region. I was curious to hear how the vineyard managers and winemakers at Erste +Neue balance the demands of preserving and integrating the “terroir” factor into their wines while balancing the needs of the local ecosystem with the standards of producing world-class grapes and wine consistently. 

Seeking answers to these questions and others, I posed them directly to a leading viticulture professional and Chief Enologist at Erste+Neue, Andrea Moser. The following is our interview published in his own words.

How does Erste+Neue approach the unique challenges that making wine in the Alto Adige present while still being able to produce the highest quality wines that display a “sense of place?

“Facing the challenges of climate change is becoming increasingly important in every wine-growing region of the globe, and in South Tyrol, too, it is no different.”

However, Alto Adige and specifically our area are at a great benefit with respect to this issue, in fact, our orographic situation is very particular. The vineyards start in fact with the red varieties at about 230 m.a.s.l. and arrive in just a few kilometers to elevations of about 700 m.a.s.l. where the white varieties find excellent ripening conditions. This large elevation range, combined with a constant south-to-north wind “the Garda Hour” and strong temperature fluctuations between day and night due to the mountains surrounding us (Mendola range), allows us to consistently obtain high qualities on both red and white grape varieties.

Ripe but fresh and elegant reds and whites with low pH, good acidity, crisp and fresh that perfectly embody the spirit of our territory and our vineyards located in the middle of the Alps.”

How has being FAIR’N GREEN certified complemented your winemaking practices and philosophy in both the vineyard and cellar?

“For us, sustainability and especially respect for the environment has always been a key point to consider during our work from vineyard to bottle.

Since we have been working with Fair&Green we have made this commitment measurable and have strived to improve our efficiency and sustainability a little more each year.

In the first year of certification, we scored 68 percent while we are now at 82 percent on the scale that verifies, measures, and evaluates our degree of environmental commitment. Today, having reached the fifth year of certification, we have made many steps forward, such as completely eliminating some synthetic molecules for the phytosanitary defense of the vines, eliminating chemical weeding by 92%, increasing the areas under green manure thus increasing biodiversity in the field, and introducing sexual confusion in the vineyard to combat certain types of harmful insects. All our wines can be considered vegan since we have not used any clarifiers of animal origin for several years now, only yeast derivatives. By now, all the facilities for the production of cold, compressed air and nitrogen are equipped with energy recovery to produce hot water. We have equipped ourselves with photovoltaic panels that can provide us with about 40 percent of the energy we use.

In terms of packaging, the biggest step has been taken by eliminating bottles that are too heavy. In fact, we have gone from 700/750-gram bottles to 500-gram bottles, reducing our CO2 footprint by a third.

The road to true all-around sustainability is still a long one, but we are very committed and determined to get there as soon as possible.”

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Martin Klammer, Sales Director of Erste+Neue for his support because without it this article would not have been possible. I would also like to thank Andrea Moser, Chief Enologist of Erste+Neue for his time and candid insights into the ideology behind the winemaking mindset at E+N. I found his comments about how the culture at E+N and the environment are intertwined extremely informative because I hold a degree in nature conservation. The following is my review of Erste+Neue Classic Pinot Nero 2021.

Pinot Nero is known internationally as Pinot Noir. Pinot Nero is an early-ripening grape with a thick skin that has the reputation for being a “Heartbreak Grape” variety because it requires a great deal of care in the vineyard thus making it difficult to produce a successful harvest consistently. 

Erste+Neue Classic Pinot Nero 2021 is a sophisticated well-made wine that can be purchased at a very fair price. This Pinot Nero is ruby red in the glass and opens with the aromas of cherry & faint raspberry that is followed by the prominent flavor of cherries on the palate while smooth tannins and lively acidity are borne on the medium body of this wine. The finish is lengthy and agreeable.

Uptown Funk

bridges_moscato_front__200     From Pittsburgh’s East End the Bridges Wine Company will be bringing their wines to the Pittsburgh Public Market, 2401 Penn Ave. in the Strip District for the next two weekends.  Get a taste of what Bridges Wine has to offer on Saturday March 14th & 21st from 9-5 and Sunday March 15th & 22nd from 10-4.  The newly released 2014 Washington Moscato will be available for $15 along with the Bridges 2012 Pinot Noir and 2012 Zinfandel.  James and Rebecca McCeney will also be offering special discounts on multiple bottle purchases.

Bidding is Now Open!

All Materials Courtesy of Morrell & Company Fine Wine Auction

All Materials Courtesy of Morrell & Company Fine Wine Auction

    Have you ever wanted to bid on a great bottle of wine offered at a wine auction but could not stand the thought of sitting in a room filled with wine snobs while holding a little paddle with a number on it.  If your answer is yes then you are in luck because Morrell & Company Fine Wine Auction is conducting an internet only auction on Wednesday February 27th at 10:30 a.m.(EST) on their website www.morrellwineauctions.com.   Bids may only be placed by absentee bid and live bid.  Absentee bids may be placed now and the live bidding will be available online at the commencement of the auction.  To participate go to the website and register, peruse the catalog of offerings then place a bid if you find something you like.  If you intend to bid live, Morrell recommends using their Live Bidding Simulator to check your computers compatibility to prevent any issues when live bidding starts.  Need more information? Call 212-307-4200 

Mad Dog 20-20

MD 20-20  Photo courtesy MD 20-20

MD 20-20 Photo courtesy MD 20-20

     When you are out with friends and want to make them laugh, you might want to ask “Should we get a Pinot, Cabernet or maybe a nice bottle of Thunderbird or Wild Irish Rose?”  This will surly elicit the polite knowing snickers of someone who has sipped from a hi-proof wine bottle in their youth.  These wines have been around a long time and they will not be leaving the shelves anytime soon, much to the dismay of the fine wine crowd.  The names are iconic and well-known to the entire vertical scale of American culture.  The names include MD 20-20 and its many classic fluorescent manifestations starting with Banana Red, Electric Melon, Orange Jubilee, Peaches & Cream, Strawberry-Kiwi and  Red, also equally notable are Richards Wild Irish Rose and Night Train Express but the granddaddy of them all is Thunderbird.  I was very disappointed recently to learn that Boones Farm Strawberry Hill and the multitude of flavor choices it spawned was in fact a malt beverage!(Is nothing sacred these days).  We laugh about these products but they are still here because they provide a steady and reliable revenue stream to their producers unlike the Fine Wine business that is at the mercy of harvest quality, the skill of the wine makers and the opinions of the critics.  With that in mind may I suggest that it may be time to roll down the top of your paper bag, crack open the screw top and ENJOY!!! 

Something Different

Pinot Grigio

2011 Volere Pinot Grigio

2011 Volere Rose

2011 Volere Rose

     I have to tip my hat to Volére for the imaginative packaging of a box wine trio that was perfectly timed for the holiday season.  The wine business is extremely competitive and it is very hard to grab a consumers attention but this innovative idea does just that.  Volére has packaged three selections in a box that looks like a designer purse with details which include a color coordinated handle, hang tag and a zipper printed on the top of the purse.  The box contains 1.5 liter of either a 2011 Pinot Grigio, Rosé or Red Blend and is list priced at $14.99.  My wife purchased a few as hostess gifts that she will give out this holiday season.  I forgot to mention that the spout pulls out of the end of the box/purse, so it can serve on the go or from the shelf of your refrigerator.

Thanksgiving Wine

Assortment of wine from Domaine Chandon in Yar...

Assortment of wine . (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

     Thanksgiving is only a week away and the menu is set but the wine list will remain fluid until the last-minute. White wines are the traditional choices because they pair wonderfully with Thanksgiving fare.  A dry Chardonnay with a light oak aging is always a sure bet but a fruity unoaked offering might be a more interesting choice.  Sauvignon Blanc is also a good pick with its lively acidity or if you want to spur some dinner table wine talk try a Gewürztraminer, White Burgundy or even a Viognier.  If your guests like a little sweeter wine try a White Zinfandel to satisfy their tastes.  Reds are hard to blend with the flavor palate of this holiday meal but if you must uncork a bottle of red I suggest trying a light bodied wine with fine tannins and the best choice for that is Pinot Noir.  We will be pouring three New York  white wines from the 3 Brothers Winery in the Finger Lakes Region, a 2010 1st Degree Medium Dry Riesling and a 2010 2nd Degree Medium Sweet Riesling along with a 2011 Stoney Lonesome Estates Grüner Veltliner. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.

Argyle Pinot Noir Spirithouse $39.99?

Argyle Winery, Dundee, Oregon

Argyle Winery, Dundee, Oregon (Photo credit: PnP!)

 We often complain about the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board that regulates alcohol sales here but there are times when they get it right.  I have to say the Chairman Selection offering of 2007 Argyle Pinot Noir Spirithouse for $39.99 (a savings of $ 35.01 from its quoted price of $75 ) is one of those times.  This Oregon Pinot Noir was produced by the Knudson Vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA of the Williamette Valley.  It is currently listed as Sold Out by the winery but that should be no surprise after Wine Advocate rated it 93 pts and Wine Spectator gave it a 90 pt rating in 2009 which means it has only gotten better since then.  Spirithouse exhibits plenty of ripe fruit flavors especially raspberry and red cherry and just enough tannins with a smooth textured finished.  This is a very good quality Pinot Noir that has more than sufficient acidity and the hint of pepper that is the signature of a good Pinot.  I will tip my hat to the PLCB on this one and say  “Job well done”.   PLCB Code 32593